近代日本地方產業發展與飲食文化之關連：以北海道為例

Abstract

近代日本以「殖產興業」為口號，常對地方產業採行策略性的發展，此舉必帶給當地飲食文化莫大的衝擊。明治初期被劃入至日本領土內、成為產業開發及人口移入的「開拓地」的北海道，即是值得探討的對象。故本文旨在以北海道為例，試探討近代日本地方產業發展與飲食文化之間的關聯性。產業發展有時直接影響當地居民的飲食。近代北海道的漁村，延續江戶時期的傳統，多食用青魚，乃因青魚捕獲量為多。甚至，發展出大半日本內地人無習慣飲用、在少許水裡放入鹹青魚等食材熬煮成的「三平汁」。另外，無論是漁村或農村，皆常會用江戶時期少見的馬鈴薯。此因政府主導開發適合北方嚴寒氣候的美國品種，再加上馬鈴薯易於生長，其產量激增所致。然而，當地居民的飲食文化並非完全取決於產業發展，北海道大米的生產及食用便是極佳的例子。道民本著在日本內地種植水稻的習慣，成功研發耐寒的品種。而且，在日本內地對大米所抱持的身分、財富象徵之文化認知，促使部份城鎮或都市居民，在財力允許的情況下就開始食用之；亦成為近代漁村的漁場經營者在漁期時為招攬季節性漁工，多提供大米飯的主因之一。

Modern Japan used the notion of `syokusan kōgyō` (generating property and developing enterprise) as its slogan, often adopted strategies for regional industrial development. Such a move would certainly bring tremendous effects to local food culture. Drawn within the boundary of Japan in the early Meiji period and a `frontier land` for industrial development and migration, Hokkaidō is a subject worthy for investigation. This paper uses Hokkaidō as the case study to explore the relationship between regional industrial development and food culture in modem Japan.Industrial development sometimes had direct effects on the diet of the e local population. Villages based on fishing in modem Hokkaidō continued the tradition from the Edo period to eat herring. Hokkaidō even developed a dish not popular among the population in Japan mainland, which was called `sanpeiziru` by mixing a small amount of water with salted herrings for a soup. On the other hand, villagers, whether based on fishing or farming, consumed potatoes in their daily diet. This crop was novel to the Edo period and was a result of industrial development. At the beginning, the government introduced and promoted the growing of the American specie of potato, which was more suitable for the harsh and cold weather of the north. As the crop was easy to grow, the production of potato increased, and thus widely consumed by the locals. The production and consumption of paddy is a case in point. Based upon their customs of paddy cultivation in Japan mainland, inhabitants within the prefecture grew successfully new species of paddy sustainable in cold weather. Moreover, as rice-eating culturally represented status and wealth in Japan mainland, some of the Hokkaidō urban-dwellers, in towns or cities, would consume rice when their budget allowed. Such a cultural perception on rice also explains why modem fishery owners often provided rice to periodic workers from the villages during the fishing season.