近代日本之西洋蔬菜的受容-以洋蔥為例

Abstract

自明治時代開始，日本政府為了晉身近代化國家之行列，積極地引進西方文化，而西洋蔬菜之品種及栽培技術的引進亦是西方文化導入政策中的一環。然而，即便是同樣於明治維新期為了近代化而從西方引進的食物，融入日本生活之過程則各有不同。因此，筆者欲以西洋蔬菜之洋蔥為例，加以探討日本飲食文化中受容之樣態。\n 本稿以洋蔥為例是因為，洋蔥是明治初期所引進之西洋蔬菜中，最早融入於日本飲食生活中之蔬菜。然而，洋蔥不如馬鈴薯般可作為主食食用，且味道較其他蔬菜刺鼻，於是要在毫無抵抗的情況下以新蔬菜的身分融入日本飲食生活中勢必有其難度。因此，筆者欲在本稿中針對洋蔥是如何融入日本之飲食生活，及其融入之過程加以闡述說明。\n 研究方法方面，首先，藉由蔬菜栽培史闡明官方及民間之洋蔥的導入、生產過程。接著，從宮廷中之菜單、西洋料理之食譜、西洋料理餐廳之菜單等史料中，考察日本之西洋料理中調理洋蔥的方法。再者，從軍隊之菜單、料理學校及女子學校所進行之料理課程的教科書、洋食餐廳之菜單等史料中，考察日本之洋食中調理洋蔥的方法。然後，從軍隊之菜單、料理學校及女子學校所進行之料理課程的教科書、新聞之料理資訊等史料中，考察日本之和食中調理洋蔥的方法。最後，比較洋蔥於西洋料理、洋食、和食中之使用方法異同，以闡明洋蔥是如何融入日本固有之飲食生活的體系中。藉由以前述方法所得到之結果，便可得知洋蔥之具體的受容樣態。

Starting from the Meiji era (1868), the Japanese government aggressively imported elements of western culture in order to modernize the country. One of the government’s policies was to import western vegetables and cultivation techniques. Even though different foods were imported from the West at the same time, the process of acceptance was different for each kind. In this paper, I would like to use the onion as an example to discuss how western vegetables were adopted into Japanese cuisine.\n The onion was chosen in this paper because it was the first western vegetable that had taken a firm hold on Japanese cuisine. However, the onion can’t be a staple starch like the potato, and it has a special flavor. So it was not easy to be accepted. In this paper, I would like to examine how the onion was accepted in Japanese cuisine.\n In this research, the import process and the production process of the onion was examined in the vegetable history of Japan. The cooking method of the onion of the Western food was investigated in the menu of the Imperial Court, the recipe of the western food cookbook, and the menu of the western food restaurant. Then the cooking method of the onion of the Yousyoku (洋食) was investigated in the menu of the army food, the textbook of the cooking school, the girls’ school, and the menu of the Yousyoku (洋食) restaurant. And then the cooking method of the onion of the Japanese food was investigated in the menu of the army food, the textbook of the cooking school, the girls’ school, and the recipe columns of the newspaper.\n In conclusion, the cooking methods of the onion were compared among the Western food, Yousyoku (洋食), and Japanese food to clearly show how the onion was accepted in the historical Japan and in Modern Japan.