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題名 奢華產業有道德?可永續嗎?
Is the luxury industry sustainable and ethical?
作者 雷安琪
Grimault, Angélique
貢獻者 林月雲
Lin, Yeh-Yun
雷安琪
Angélique Grimault
關鍵詞 商業
消費者
道德
奢侈品
永續
Business
Consumer
Ethics
Luxury
Sustainability
日期 2023
上傳時間 2-Jun-2023 11:45:51 (UTC+8)
摘要 From the ancient to the present times, the field of luxury evolved as well as its definition and perception in the eyes of its consumers. Luxury goods differentiate by their scarcity, expensiveness, preciousness, and quality. Those goods provide a feeling of superiority, and a desire created by their inaccessibility. There is room for wondering if the luxury industry could be sustainable and ethical all while providing such goods. This study interviewed four employees, working in the luxury sector. They shared some difficulties their companies encountered regarding sustainable and ethical commitments. Indeed, those topics are not a priority for their customers, although they noticed a real improvement from luxury brands in their pro-environment communication and actions conducted. Luxury industry, unlike other industries, is not affected by the economic crisis and is one of the top industries in terms of profit. One may confront profit and ethics when they are not necessarily apart from each other. The study revealed that business requires trust and integrity, which are ethical values. Maximizing profit also fuels economic growth, which promotes prosperity and can lift people out of poverty. It is therefore necessary to accept that no business can be purely ethical, but it can still participate in actions with positive impacts. At the end of the day, the limits one may set for ethics are a matter of personal view.
參考文獻 Reference
     
     Afnor – Website. (2023). https://www.afnor.org/responsabilite-societale/odd-reporting/
     Amatulli, C. De Angelis, M. Costabile M. & Guido, G. (2017). Sustainable Luxury Brands: Evidence from Research and Implications for Managers. Palgrave Macmillan.
     Armstrong, P. (2011). What are ‘conflict diamonds?’. CNN.
     Béji-Bécheur, A. (2014). “La responsabilité sociale des entreprises du luxe : de l’image à la fabrique de normes”, dans De Lassus C. et Briot E. Marketing du luxe, aux éditions EMS.
     Bhagat, S. (2022). An Inconvenient Truth About ESG Investing. Harvard Business Review.
     Benefit Corporation – Website. (2023). https://www.bcorporation.net/
     Brodowsky, G H. & Schuster, C P. (2020). “Chapter 8: Global luxury brands: researching cross-cultural differences in motivations to consume”. Handbook on Cross-Cultural Marketing. Edward Elgar.
     Cegid – Website. (2023). L’avenir du luxe : Quelles sont les tendances actuelles ?. https://www.cegid.com/
     Da Silva, O. (2020). L’exemple français. Liberté pour apprendre – Website. https://liberte-pour-apprendre.fr/
     Davies, I.A. Lee, Z. & Ahonkhai, I. (2012). Do Consumers Care About Ethical-Luxury?. Journal of Business Ethics. Vol. 106, No. 1. Springer.
     Delpal, F. & Jacomet, D. (2014). Économie du luxe. Dunod. Les topos.
     Duska, R. (2000). Business Ethics: Oxymoron or Good Business?. Business Ethics Quarterly. Vol. 10, No. 1. Globalization and the Ethics of Business. Cambridge University Press.
     Empl’itude – Website. (2023). Les trois piliers de la responsabilité sociale des entreprises. https://www.label-emplitude.fr/
     Fray, A. (2005). Comportements éthiques et responsabilité sociale : Quid de la pérennité ?.... Vie & sciences de l`entreprise, 168-169, 20-36.
     Friedman, M. (1970). “A Friedman Doctrine: The Social Responsibility of Business is to Increase Its Profits”. The New York Times.
     Gardetti, M. & Girón, M. (2014). Sustainable Luxury and Social Entrepreneurship: Stories From the Pioneers. Routledge.
     Gardetti, M. & Torres, A. (2017). Sustainable Luxury: Managing Social and Environmental Performance in Iconic Brands. Routledge.
     Global Eco-labelling Network – Website. (2023). https://globalecolabelling.net/
     Gouvernement – Website. (2023). Ministère de la Transition écologique et de la Cohésion des territoires. Les allégations environnementales. https://www.ecologie.gouv.fr/
     Gouvernement – Website. (2023). Ministère de la Transition écologique et de la Cohésion des territoires. La loi anti-gaspillage pour une économie circulaire. https://www.ecologie.gouv.fr/
     Gouvernement – Website. (2023). Ministère de l`Économie, des Finances et de la Souveraineté industrielle et numérique. Qu’est-ce que la responsabilité sociétale des entreprises (RSE) ?. https://www.economie.gouv.fr/
     Gucci – Website. (2023). https://www.gucci.com/us/en/
     Hartzmark, S.M. & Sussman, A.B. (2019). Do Investors Value Sustainability? A Natural Experiment Examining Ranking and Fund Flows. The Journal of Finance. Vol. 74, No. 6 (December 2019), pp. 2789- 2837.
     Ipsos. (2016). World Luxury Tracking 2016: Expanding Luxury Horizons. https://www.ipsos.com/en-hk/world-luxury-tracking-2016
     ISO – Website. (2023). https://www.iso.org/
     Janssen, C. Vanhamme, J. Lindgreen, A. & Lefebvre, C. (2013). “The Catch-22 of Responsible Luxury: Effects of Luxury Product Characteristics on Consumers` Perception of Fit with Corporate Social Responsibility”. Journal of Business Ethics. Vol. 119, No. 1
     Kering – Website. (2020). Fashion Pact. https://keringcorporate.dam.kering.com/
     Kimberly Process – Website. (2023). https://www.kimberleyprocess.com/
     Lo, C. & Ha-Brookshire, J. (2018). Sustainability in Luxury Fashion Business. Springer Series in Fashion Business.
     Gautier, H. (2013). Luxe et innovations : Nouvelles perspectives économiques. Innovations, Cahiers d’économie de l’innovation, n°41 Éditions De Boeck.
     Gosselt, J.F. van Rompay, T. & Haske, L. (2019). Won’t Get Fooled Again: The Effects of Internal and External CSR ECO-Labeling. Journal of Business Ethics. 155, 413–424.
     LVMH Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton – Website. (2023). https://www.lvmh.fr/groupe/
     Mazars. (2017). Vers un nouveau Luxe : Éthique et Création de Valeur. https://www.mazars.fr/Accueil/Insights/Publications-et-evenements/Etudes/Vers-un-nouveau-luxe-ethique-et-creation-de-valeur
     Nesme, M. (2016). Développement durable : des services d’information responsables. I2D - Information, données & documents.
     Olorenshaw, R. (2011). Luxury and the recent economic crisis. Dans Vie & sciences de l`entreprise. Vol. 188, pages 72-90.
     Petit, R. (2022). L’esclavagisme des Ouïghours en Chine, où en est-on 2 ans après ?. The Good Goods.
     Proudhon, P-J. (1840). What is Property? An Inquiry into the Principle of Right and of Government.
     Satto, V. (2022). « Woke Washing », la fausse prise de conscience des marques. The Good Goods.
     The Economist Group Limited. (2023). What luxury stocks say about the new cold war. The Economist.
     Van She, K. (2021). La communication éthique des marques de mode de luxe (ITW). Medium.
     Veblen, T.B. (1899). The Theory of the Leisure Class. An Economic Study of Institutions. London: Macmillan Publishers.
     Voltaire. (1818). Œuvres complètes de Voltaire. Politique et législation – Tome I, Commerce et luxe. Antoine-Augustin Renouard.
描述 碩士
國立政治大學
國際經營管理英語碩士學位學程(IMBA)
111933052
資料來源 http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0111933052
資料類型 thesis
dc.contributor.advisor 林月雲zh_TW
dc.contributor.advisor Lin, Yeh-Yunen_US
dc.contributor.author (Authors) 雷安琪zh_TW
dc.contributor.author (Authors) Angélique Grimaulten_US
dc.creator (作者) 雷安琪zh_TW
dc.creator (作者) Grimault, Angéliqueen_US
dc.date (日期) 2023en_US
dc.date.accessioned 2-Jun-2023 11:45:51 (UTC+8)-
dc.date.available 2-Jun-2023 11:45:51 (UTC+8)-
dc.date.issued (上傳時間) 2-Jun-2023 11:45:51 (UTC+8)-
dc.identifier (Other Identifiers) G0111933052en_US
dc.identifier.uri (URI) http://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/145083-
dc.description (描述) 碩士zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 國立政治大學zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 國際經營管理英語碩士學位學程(IMBA)zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 111933052zh_TW
dc.description.abstract (摘要) From the ancient to the present times, the field of luxury evolved as well as its definition and perception in the eyes of its consumers. Luxury goods differentiate by their scarcity, expensiveness, preciousness, and quality. Those goods provide a feeling of superiority, and a desire created by their inaccessibility. There is room for wondering if the luxury industry could be sustainable and ethical all while providing such goods. This study interviewed four employees, working in the luxury sector. They shared some difficulties their companies encountered regarding sustainable and ethical commitments. Indeed, those topics are not a priority for their customers, although they noticed a real improvement from luxury brands in their pro-environment communication and actions conducted. Luxury industry, unlike other industries, is not affected by the economic crisis and is one of the top industries in terms of profit. One may confront profit and ethics when they are not necessarily apart from each other. The study revealed that business requires trust and integrity, which are ethical values. Maximizing profit also fuels economic growth, which promotes prosperity and can lift people out of poverty. It is therefore necessary to accept that no business can be purely ethical, but it can still participate in actions with positive impacts. At the end of the day, the limits one may set for ethics are a matter of personal view.en_US
dc.description.tableofcontents TABLE OF CONTENTS
     1. Introduction 1
     2. Literature review 3
     2.1. Luxury, sustainability, and ethics: an antagonistic relationship? 3
     2.1.1. The luxury industry, an industry of all excesses 3
     2.1.2. Luxury and sustainability, an apparent contradiction 6
     2.1.3. The place of ethics in the luxury sector: individualism or inclusiveness? 7
     2.2. The social and ecological turning point: a priority for the sector of luxury goods 9
     2.2.1. The social and environmental impacts: a new criterion in the purchase decision of the customer 9
     2.2.2. A relationship to be nuanced between the increase in sales and the desire for ethical goods in the luxury industry, and the financial performance of companies 11
     2.2.3. The turning point of luxury brands in terms of engagement 14
     2.2.4. Responsible luxury: a new trend or a real engagement from the brands? 16
     2.3. How to know if luxury brands’ engagements in terms of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) are real and trustworthy? 18
     2.3.1. The importance of sourcing and traceability 18
     2.3.2. The norms and labels of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) 20
     2.3.3. The next step in terms of engagements 22
     2.4. Summary 24
     3. Research method 26
     3.1. Methodology 26
     3.2. Limits 26
     3.3. Interviews template 27
     4. Results 28
     4.1. The rising concern of sustainability and ethics 29
     4.1.1. Demand of higher transparency coming from the customers of luxury sector 29
     4.1.2. A necessary awakening for the luxury sector 30
     4.1.3. New ways to trust companies’ commitments and to be better informed 30
     4.1.4. However, a limited concern depending on the customer’s background and generation 31
     4.2. Luxury brands responding with a more CSR-oriented strategy 31
     4.2.1. The first movers in terms of CSR 32
     4.2.2. A first step towards CSR from brands starting with less expensive products 32
     4.2.3. A noticeable improvement over the past few years 33
     4.2.4. Brands are making real commitments in terms of CSR 34
     4.3. Luxury brands still need improvements in their actions 35
     4.3.1. Remaining difficulties in engaging in CSR in the luxury sector 35
     4.3.2. Incompatibility between the idea of luxury and sustainable development 36
     4.3.3. Greenwashing practices still exist 36
     4.3.4. Next steps for customers and luxury companies 37
     4.4. Summary 38
     5. Discussion 44
     5.1. The luxury industry: the paradoxes of an industry beyond all “normalities” 44
     5.1.1. A necessity to educate customers, confronted to misinformation and greenwashing 44
     5.1.2. New consumption habits of more ethical goods confronted to the whims of traditional luxury customers in an industry beyond all “normal” realities 45
     5.1.3. Exemplarity of luxury brands towards CSR confronted to the impossible relationship between the necessity of preserving their business and being ethical 46
     5.2. The apparent contradiction between business and ethics 46
     5.2.1. The limits of ethics applied to business 47
     5.2.2. The possible reconciliation between business and ethics: when business brings prosperity and positive impacts 47
     5.2.3. Pulling the limits of ethics too far would make business disappear 48
     6. Conclusion 50
     Reference 53
     Appendix 56
zh_TW
dc.source.uri (資料來源) http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0111933052en_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 商業zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 消費者zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 道德zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 奢侈品zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 永續zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Businessen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Consumeren_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Ethicsen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Luxuryen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Sustainabilityen_US
dc.title (題名) 奢華產業有道德?可永續嗎?zh_TW
dc.title (題名) Is the luxury industry sustainable and ethical?en_US
dc.type (資料類型) thesisen_US
dc.relation.reference (參考文獻) Reference
     
     Afnor – Website. (2023). https://www.afnor.org/responsabilite-societale/odd-reporting/
     Amatulli, C. De Angelis, M. Costabile M. & Guido, G. (2017). Sustainable Luxury Brands: Evidence from Research and Implications for Managers. Palgrave Macmillan.
     Armstrong, P. (2011). What are ‘conflict diamonds?’. CNN.
     Béji-Bécheur, A. (2014). “La responsabilité sociale des entreprises du luxe : de l’image à la fabrique de normes”, dans De Lassus C. et Briot E. Marketing du luxe, aux éditions EMS.
     Bhagat, S. (2022). An Inconvenient Truth About ESG Investing. Harvard Business Review.
     Benefit Corporation – Website. (2023). https://www.bcorporation.net/
     Brodowsky, G H. & Schuster, C P. (2020). “Chapter 8: Global luxury brands: researching cross-cultural differences in motivations to consume”. Handbook on Cross-Cultural Marketing. Edward Elgar.
     Cegid – Website. (2023). L’avenir du luxe : Quelles sont les tendances actuelles ?. https://www.cegid.com/
     Da Silva, O. (2020). L’exemple français. Liberté pour apprendre – Website. https://liberte-pour-apprendre.fr/
     Davies, I.A. Lee, Z. & Ahonkhai, I. (2012). Do Consumers Care About Ethical-Luxury?. Journal of Business Ethics. Vol. 106, No. 1. Springer.
     Delpal, F. & Jacomet, D. (2014). Économie du luxe. Dunod. Les topos.
     Duska, R. (2000). Business Ethics: Oxymoron or Good Business?. Business Ethics Quarterly. Vol. 10, No. 1. Globalization and the Ethics of Business. Cambridge University Press.
     Empl’itude – Website. (2023). Les trois piliers de la responsabilité sociale des entreprises. https://www.label-emplitude.fr/
     Fray, A. (2005). Comportements éthiques et responsabilité sociale : Quid de la pérennité ?.... Vie & sciences de l`entreprise, 168-169, 20-36.
     Friedman, M. (1970). “A Friedman Doctrine: The Social Responsibility of Business is to Increase Its Profits”. The New York Times.
     Gardetti, M. & Girón, M. (2014). Sustainable Luxury and Social Entrepreneurship: Stories From the Pioneers. Routledge.
     Gardetti, M. & Torres, A. (2017). Sustainable Luxury: Managing Social and Environmental Performance in Iconic Brands. Routledge.
     Global Eco-labelling Network – Website. (2023). https://globalecolabelling.net/
     Gouvernement – Website. (2023). Ministère de la Transition écologique et de la Cohésion des territoires. Les allégations environnementales. https://www.ecologie.gouv.fr/
     Gouvernement – Website. (2023). Ministère de la Transition écologique et de la Cohésion des territoires. La loi anti-gaspillage pour une économie circulaire. https://www.ecologie.gouv.fr/
     Gouvernement – Website. (2023). Ministère de l`Économie, des Finances et de la Souveraineté industrielle et numérique. Qu’est-ce que la responsabilité sociétale des entreprises (RSE) ?. https://www.economie.gouv.fr/
     Gucci – Website. (2023). https://www.gucci.com/us/en/
     Hartzmark, S.M. & Sussman, A.B. (2019). Do Investors Value Sustainability? A Natural Experiment Examining Ranking and Fund Flows. The Journal of Finance. Vol. 74, No. 6 (December 2019), pp. 2789- 2837.
     Ipsos. (2016). World Luxury Tracking 2016: Expanding Luxury Horizons. https://www.ipsos.com/en-hk/world-luxury-tracking-2016
     ISO – Website. (2023). https://www.iso.org/
     Janssen, C. Vanhamme, J. Lindgreen, A. & Lefebvre, C. (2013). “The Catch-22 of Responsible Luxury: Effects of Luxury Product Characteristics on Consumers` Perception of Fit with Corporate Social Responsibility”. Journal of Business Ethics. Vol. 119, No. 1
     Kering – Website. (2020). Fashion Pact. https://keringcorporate.dam.kering.com/
     Kimberly Process – Website. (2023). https://www.kimberleyprocess.com/
     Lo, C. & Ha-Brookshire, J. (2018). Sustainability in Luxury Fashion Business. Springer Series in Fashion Business.
     Gautier, H. (2013). Luxe et innovations : Nouvelles perspectives économiques. Innovations, Cahiers d’économie de l’innovation, n°41 Éditions De Boeck.
     Gosselt, J.F. van Rompay, T. & Haske, L. (2019). Won’t Get Fooled Again: The Effects of Internal and External CSR ECO-Labeling. Journal of Business Ethics. 155, 413–424.
     LVMH Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton – Website. (2023). https://www.lvmh.fr/groupe/
     Mazars. (2017). Vers un nouveau Luxe : Éthique et Création de Valeur. https://www.mazars.fr/Accueil/Insights/Publications-et-evenements/Etudes/Vers-un-nouveau-luxe-ethique-et-creation-de-valeur
     Nesme, M. (2016). Développement durable : des services d’information responsables. I2D - Information, données & documents.
     Olorenshaw, R. (2011). Luxury and the recent economic crisis. Dans Vie & sciences de l`entreprise. Vol. 188, pages 72-90.
     Petit, R. (2022). L’esclavagisme des Ouïghours en Chine, où en est-on 2 ans après ?. The Good Goods.
     Proudhon, P-J. (1840). What is Property? An Inquiry into the Principle of Right and of Government.
     Satto, V. (2022). « Woke Washing », la fausse prise de conscience des marques. The Good Goods.
     The Economist Group Limited. (2023). What luxury stocks say about the new cold war. The Economist.
     Van She, K. (2021). La communication éthique des marques de mode de luxe (ITW). Medium.
     Veblen, T.B. (1899). The Theory of the Leisure Class. An Economic Study of Institutions. London: Macmillan Publishers.
     Voltaire. (1818). Œuvres complètes de Voltaire. Politique et législation – Tome I, Commerce et luxe. Antoine-Augustin Renouard.
zh_TW