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題名 時尚服飾永續循環經濟研究 - 從需求端觀點討論生態系的佈建
A Study on the Sustainable Circular Economy of Fashion Apparel - Exploring the Establishment of a Business Ecosystem from the Demand-Side Perspective
作者 曹開昱
Tso, Kai-Yu
貢獻者 吳思華
WU,SIH-HUA
曹開昱
Tso, Kai-Yu
關鍵詞 需求
生態系
生態系佈建
循環經濟
Demand-side perspective
Business ecosystem
Establishment of a Business Ecosystem
Circular economy
日期 2023
上傳時間 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8)
摘要 在快時尚產業蓬勃發展的現代社會中,衍生出了許多資源浪費與污染的議題,許 多新創事業試圖以處理淘汰的二手衣,緩解這個社會問題,然而以線性經濟的思維能 做的改善有限。因此本研究藉由探討美國第一家成功 IPO 的女裝租賃公司 Rent the Runway(以下簡稱 RTR),其對消費者需求的洞察與為滿足需求所進行的生態系佈建 跟生態系的演化,提供台灣新創事業以循環經濟的角度規劃女裝事業的策略建議。
本研究採個案研究法為研究方法,並以次級資料的蒐集來分析個案資料。研究結 果發現,RTR 能將服飾共享租賃事業成功完成 IPO,係因將服飾共享租賃的價值融入 女性的日常生活中,並且與相關的合作夥伴有良好的合作方式與互利機制,持續吸引 服飾品牌進入 RTR 生態系內提供商品。
為了瞭解如在台灣搭建循環時尚生態系統,本研究亦研究了台灣的服裝產業現 況、台美之間的地理環境與物流基礎設施的差異、台美人民的社交與穿衣習慣差異, 並藉由對 RTR 的發展研究,提出在台灣應以社會企業的模式推廣共享時尚對社會環境 的正面意義,以 B2B 的方式與企業合作,並藉企業的力量將時尚服飾的循環經濟成為 民眾的穿衣新習慣。
In modern society where the fast fashion industry is thriving, many issues of resource waste and pollution have emerged. Many startups are attempting to address this social problem by dealing with discarded second-hand clothing. However, the improvements that can be made through linear economic thinking are limited. Therefore, this study explores Rent the Runway(RTR), the first women`s clothing rental company in the United States to go public, examining its insights into consumer demand and the establishment and evolution of an ecosystem based on meeting those needs. The study aims to provide suggestions for Taiwanese startups in planning their business strategies from a circular economy perspective.
This study adopts a case study approach as the research method and analyzes the case data through the collection of secondary data. The research findings indicate that RTR`s success in completing an IPO in the fashion sharing and rental business is attributed to incorporating the value of fashion sharing and rental into women`s daily lives and maintaining a good cooperative approach and mutually beneficial mechanisms with relevant partners, which continuously attracts fashion brands to provide goods within the RTR ecosystem.
To understand how to build a circular fashion ecosystem in Taiwan, this study also investigates the current situation of the clothing industry in Taiwan, the differences in geographical environment and logistics infrastructure between Taiwan and the United States, and the differences in social interactions and dressing habits between Taiwanese and Americans. By studying the development of RTR, the study proposes promoting the positive impact of shared fashion on the social environment in Taiwan through a social enterprise model, collaborating with businesses in a B2B manner, and leveraging the power of enterprises to transform the sustainable circular economy of fashion and change people`s dressing habits.
參考文獻 一、中文文獻
吳思華(2022)。《尋找策略典範3.0:人文創新H-EHA模式》。台北市:遠流
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詹宜佩(2004)。以服裝興趣、動機探討流行商品使用共同設計意願之研究─NIKE球鞋為例。淡江大學國際貿易學系國際企業學碩士班學位論文。
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Adner, R.(2022)。《生態系競爭策略:重新定義價值結構,在轉型中辨識正確的賽局,掌握策略工具,贏得先機》。黃庭敏譯。台北:天下雜誌。
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二、英文文獻
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Levänen, J., Uusitalo, V., Härri, A., Kareinen, E.and Linnanen, L. (2021). Innovative recycling or extended use? Comparing the global warming potential of different ownership and end-of-life scenarios for textiles. Environmental Research Letters 2021 Vol. 16 Issue 5 Pages 54-69
Lu, C. H., & Lin, H. Y. (2019). The relationship between lifestyle and leisure behavior of the unmarried females. Journal of Tourism and Travel Research, 14(1), 31–54.
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Moore, J. F. (1993). Predators and prey: a new ecology of competition. Harvard business review, 71(3), 75-86.
Pidun, U., Reeves, M., & Schüssler, M. (2019). Do you need a business ecosystem. BCG Henderson Institute, 11.
Pidun, U., Reeves, M., & Schüssler, M. (2020). How Do You “Design” a Business Ecosystem? Boston Consulting Group. Feb, 20.
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Priem, R. L., Butler, J. E., & Li, S. (2013). Toward reimagining strategy research: retrospection and prospection on the 2011 AMR decade award article. Academy of management review, 38(4), 471-489.
Straughan, R. D., & Roberts, J. A. (1999). Environmental segmentation alternatives: a look at green consumer behavior in the new millennium. Journal of consumer marketing, 16(6), 558-575.
Teece, D. J. (2018). Business models and dynamic capabilities. Long range planning, 51(1), 40-49.
The Nielsen Company. (2014). Is Sharing the New Buying? Global Survey of Share Communities, Q3 2013
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Yuan, Q. & Shen B. (2019). Renting fashion with strategic customers in the sharing economy, International Journal of Production Economics, Volume 218, 2019, Pages 185-195.

三、網路資料
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文化部(2019)。時尚跨界整合旗艦計畫(108-111,經濟部工業局&文化部)。取自:https://tech.culture.tw/home/zh-tw/plan/40243
未來流通研究所(2020)。台灣「電商物流」產業競爭地圖。取自:https://www.mirai.com.tw/2020-taiwan-ec-logistics-industry-map-diagram/
百科知識(2023)。中西服裝文化比較。取自:https://www.easyatm.com.tw/wiki/%E4%B8%AD%E8%A5%BF%E6%9C%8D%E8%A3%9D%E6%96%87%E5%8C%96%E6%AF%94%E8%BC%83
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Cunningham, C. (2015). Check Out Birchbo’s New Store-in-Store at Rent the Runway Georgetown. WASHINGTONIAN. 取自:https://www.washingtonian.com/2015/11/10/check-out-birchboxs-new-store-in-store-at-rent-the-runway-georgetown/
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DraperTV. (2016). The Supply & Demand of RTR, CEO of Rent the Runway Jennifer Hyman. 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYFWpJvq6DU
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Ell, K. (2020). Rent the Runway Permanently Closing All Stores. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. 取自:https://wwd.com/business-news/retail/rent-the-runway-closing-stores-1203700039/
Erica (2020). Taiwan Dress Code for Women (It May Surprise You!). 取自:https://travelswitherica.com/taiwan-dress-code/
Euromonitor International.(2018). Apparel and Footwear in Taiwan. 取自:https://www.euromonitor.com/apparel-and-footwear-in-taiwan/report
FOX 5 New York. (2017). Rent the Runway Flagship Store in NYC. 取自https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sE-DClvmPW8&t=126s
Gustafson, K. (2016). As online sales reach new highs, Rent the Runway goes analog. CNBC. 取自:https://www.cnbc.com/2016/12/05/as-online-sales-reach-new-highs-rent-the-runway-goes-analog.html
Hopkins, K. & Roshitsh, K. (2019). Will There Be Drop-off Drama for Rent the Runway and WeWork? 取自:https://wwd.com/feature/drop-off-drama-rent-the-runway-and-weworks-partnership-1203339440/
Kemp, S. (2022). DIGITAL 2022: TAIWAN. 取自:https://datareportal.com/reports/digital-2022-taiwan
Lacombe, G. (2019). Rent the Runway launches closet concierge service with W Hotels. FASHION NETWORK. 取自:https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Rent-the-runway-launches-closet-concierge-service-with-w-hotels,1165833.html#:~:text=Launched%20on%20December%205%2C%20the,climate%20of%20the%20local%20area
Lawson. (2019). Rent the Runway Campus Rep Program. CAMPUS COMMANDOS. 取自:https://www.campuscommandos.com/rent-the-runway-campus-rep-program-is-perfect-for-fashionistas/
Lieber, C. (2019). Rent the Runway and West Elm are partnering to rent out blankets and pillows. VOX. 取自:https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/3/7/18253796/rent-the-runway-west-elm-home-goods-sharing-economy
Lieber, C. (2019). Rent the Runway Offers Cash and Apologies to Angry Customers. The Business of Fashion. 取自:https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/rent-the-runway-marv-cunningham-supply-chain/#:~:text=Technology-,Rent%20the%20Runway%20Offers%20Cash%20and%20Apologies%20to%20Angry%20Customers,complaints%20about%20supply%20chain%20failures
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RTR. (2021). Rent the Runway Commissions First Comprehensive Study of Clothing Rental Model’s Impact; Finds Renting Yields Net Environmental Savings Compared to Buying Clothes. 取自:https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/rtr-commissions-first-comprehensive-study-clothing-rental-/
Saks OFF 5TH. (2022). Saks OFF 5TH Partners with Rent the Runway to Offer Pre-Owned Fashion. CISION PR Newswire. 取自:https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/saks-off-5th-partners-with-rent-the-runway-to-offer-pre-owned-fashion-301594807.html
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Thomas, L. (2019). Rent the Runway is bringing its drop boxes to Nordstrom stores. CNBC. 取自:https://www.cnbc.com/2019/06/27/rent-the-runway-is-bringing-its-drop-boxes-to-nordstrom-stores.html#:~:text=Rent%20the%20Runway%20teams%20up,goal%20of%20scaling%20beyond%20that
Thomas, L. (2019). Rent the Runway pauses taking new customers as inventory and supply chain issues mount. CNBC. 取自:https://www.cnbc.com/2019/09/27/rent-the-runway-stops-taking-new-customers-as-issues-mount.html#:~:text=Rent%20the%20Runway%20isn`t,keep%20up%20with%20customers`%20demands
Turk, R. (2019). Rent the Runway drastically expands Nordstrom partnership. Fashion United. 取自:https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/rent-the-runway-drastically-expands-nordstrom-partnership/2019111546239
Turk, R. (2020). Rent the Runway announces "RTR Revive" partnership with Nordstrom. Fashion United. 取自:https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/rent-the-runway-announces-rtr-revive-partnership-with-nordstrom/2020011631718
United States Securities and Exchange Commission (2021). FORM S-1 Registration Statement Rent the Runway, INC. 取自:https://www.sec.gov/Archives/edgar/data/1468327/000119312521291103/d194411ds1.htm
Wells, G., Horwitz, J. & Seetharaman, D. (2021). Facebook Knows Instagram Is Toxic for Teen Girls, Company Documents Show. The wallstreet journal. 取自:https://www.wsj.com/articles/facebook-knows-instagram-is-toxic-for-teen-girls-company-documents-show-11631620739
Wework Ideas. (2019). Entrepreneurs say the right clothes help them demand respect. Wework. 取自:https://www.wework.com/ideas/professional-development/management-leadership/entrepreneurs-say-the-right-clothes-help-them-demand-respect
Premack, R. (2019). FedEx`s new service is delivering Rent the Runway in under 24 hours in New York City as the race for lightning-fast deliveries tightens. 取自: https://africa.businessinsider.com/fedexs-new-service-is-delivering-rent-the-runway-in-under-24-hours-in-new-york-city/6ypnslf
描述 碩士
國立政治大學
科技管理與智慧財產研究所
109364126
資料來源 http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0109364126
資料類型 thesis
dc.contributor.advisor 吳思華zh_TW
dc.contributor.advisor WU,SIH-HUAen_US
dc.contributor.author (Authors) 曹開昱zh_TW
dc.contributor.author (Authors) Tso, Kai-Yuen_US
dc.creator (作者) 曹開昱zh_TW
dc.creator (作者) Tso, Kai-Yuen_US
dc.date (日期) 2023en_US
dc.date.accessioned 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8)-
dc.date.available 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8)-
dc.date.issued (上傳時間) 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8)-
dc.identifier (Other Identifiers) G0109364126en_US
dc.identifier.uri (URI) http://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/146604-
dc.description (描述) 碩士zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 國立政治大學zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 科技管理與智慧財產研究所zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 109364126zh_TW
dc.description.abstract (摘要) 在快時尚產業蓬勃發展的現代社會中,衍生出了許多資源浪費與污染的議題,許 多新創事業試圖以處理淘汰的二手衣,緩解這個社會問題,然而以線性經濟的思維能 做的改善有限。因此本研究藉由探討美國第一家成功 IPO 的女裝租賃公司 Rent the Runway(以下簡稱 RTR),其對消費者需求的洞察與為滿足需求所進行的生態系佈建 跟生態系的演化,提供台灣新創事業以循環經濟的角度規劃女裝事業的策略建議。
本研究採個案研究法為研究方法,並以次級資料的蒐集來分析個案資料。研究結 果發現,RTR 能將服飾共享租賃事業成功完成 IPO,係因將服飾共享租賃的價值融入 女性的日常生活中,並且與相關的合作夥伴有良好的合作方式與互利機制,持續吸引 服飾品牌進入 RTR 生態系內提供商品。
為了瞭解如在台灣搭建循環時尚生態系統,本研究亦研究了台灣的服裝產業現 況、台美之間的地理環境與物流基礎設施的差異、台美人民的社交與穿衣習慣差異, 並藉由對 RTR 的發展研究,提出在台灣應以社會企業的模式推廣共享時尚對社會環境 的正面意義,以 B2B 的方式與企業合作,並藉企業的力量將時尚服飾的循環經濟成為 民眾的穿衣新習慣。
zh_TW
dc.description.abstract (摘要) In modern society where the fast fashion industry is thriving, many issues of resource waste and pollution have emerged. Many startups are attempting to address this social problem by dealing with discarded second-hand clothing. However, the improvements that can be made through linear economic thinking are limited. Therefore, this study explores Rent the Runway(RTR), the first women`s clothing rental company in the United States to go public, examining its insights into consumer demand and the establishment and evolution of an ecosystem based on meeting those needs. The study aims to provide suggestions for Taiwanese startups in planning their business strategies from a circular economy perspective.
This study adopts a case study approach as the research method and analyzes the case data through the collection of secondary data. The research findings indicate that RTR`s success in completing an IPO in the fashion sharing and rental business is attributed to incorporating the value of fashion sharing and rental into women`s daily lives and maintaining a good cooperative approach and mutually beneficial mechanisms with relevant partners, which continuously attracts fashion brands to provide goods within the RTR ecosystem.
To understand how to build a circular fashion ecosystem in Taiwan, this study also investigates the current situation of the clothing industry in Taiwan, the differences in geographical environment and logistics infrastructure between Taiwan and the United States, and the differences in social interactions and dressing habits between Taiwanese and Americans. By studying the development of RTR, the study proposes promoting the positive impact of shared fashion on the social environment in Taiwan through a social enterprise model, collaborating with businesses in a B2B manner, and leveraging the power of enterprises to transform the sustainable circular economy of fashion and change people`s dressing habits.
en_US
dc.description.tableofcontents 摘要 2
Abstract 3
目次 4
表次 8
圖次 10
第壹章 研究緒論 11
第一節 研究背景與動機 11
第二節 研究目的與問題 12
第貳章 文獻探討 14
第一節 商業生態系 14
一、商業生態系的定義 14
二、種類 15
三、組成要素 19
四、生態系與供應鏈的相互關係 20
五、小結 23
第二節 生態系佈建 24
一、佈建的方式 25
二、建立生態系的三原則 26
三、小結 27
第三節 需求 28
一、需求的定義與類型 28
二、辨識需求的方式 31
三、小結 34
第四節 軸心公司的生存憑藉 35
一、生態系成員的角色 35
二、軸心公司的好處 36
三、小結 36
第五節 文獻小結 37
第參章 研究方法 39
第一節 本研究觀念性架構 39
第二節 研究對象 40
一、RTR簡介 40
二、RTR社會貢獻 40
三、台灣O公司 41
四、研究進行方式 41
第肆章 個案研究 44
第一節 RTR 發展歷程 44
第二節 顧客特性 46
一、重視體驗並經常分享體驗 46
二、熟悉購買使用權的消費方式 47
三、穿完再退貨的行為 48
第三節 數位平台 48
一、提供共享租賃的品項與品項的演變 49
二、服務方案 52
三、以場合劃分的服飾類別 53
四、消費者回饋與社群 54
第四節 倉儲與物流 59
ㄧ、倉儲系統 59
二、雙向物流 61
第五節 數據資源 62
一、以數據資源進行營運優化 62
二、以數據資源協助品牌成長 63
第六節 RTR 實體體驗店與回收機制 65
一、實體體驗店 65
二、回收箱網絡 66
第七節 服飾獲取與使用結束後去留 67
第伍章 個案分析 72
第一節 新需求分析 72
一、「使用」比「擁有」更重要 72
二、「使用權」優先的「訂閱」商業模式 73
三、 創業切入點與發展路徑 75
四、小結 76
第二節 生態系成員尋找與合作方式 78
一、 由外部進行「服飾設計與生產」、「運送與回收」及「服飾穿著」 78
二、 自行營運「網站與訂單處理」與「倉儲與清洗」 80
三、 品牌合作夥伴依需求拓展 – 從舞會利基到日常生活 81
四、 與品牌的連結方式由淺入深:新增品牌寄租、獨家設計 83
五、 從消費者生活場景尋找合作夥伴形成回收網路 84
六、小結 86
第三節 軸心生存憑藉 90
一、給予消費者全新穿衣體驗、滿足環境友善的訴求 91
二、使品牌獲得精細的數據、接觸尚未消費的顧客 91
三、讓品牌不需額外投資物流中心來提供共享服務 93
四、提升異業合作夥伴客戶的體驗,增加客流量 94
五、小結 94
第陸章 台灣的時尚人文創新 97
第一節 台灣紡織業與成衣業概述 97
一、定義與涵蓋範圍 97
二、紡織業與成衣業概況 98
三、小結 99
第二節 台灣設計產業概述 99
一、定義與涵蓋範圍 99
二、設計品牌時尚產業概況 100
三、台灣設計師困境 101
四、小結 103
第三節 台灣平價服裝主要參與品牌 103
一、Zara的定位與經營理念 103
二、Uniqlo的定位與經營理念 104
三、美而快的定位與經營理念 105
四、小結 106
第四節 台灣政府對紡織與設計的政策支持與ESG規範 107
一、時尚跨界整合旗艦計畫 107
二、ESGs相關規範 108
三、小結 111
第五節 台美地理環境與物流基礎比較 111
一、台灣地理環境地狹人稠 111
二、台灣物流系統佈點密集 112
三、小結 114
第六節 台美穿著的需求差異 115
一、台灣與美國社交與穿衣文化差異 115
二、台灣與美國社會環境比較 119
三、台灣女性需求探索-頻繁購買衣服的行為 127
四、台灣民眾的環保意識程度高 129
第柒章 結論與建議 131
第一節 RTR創業發展五大策略 131
一、創業切入點與發展路徑 131
二、由外部進行服飾設計與製造 131
三、自建倉儲與清洗系統 132
四、訂閱制累積數據 133
五、異業合作夥伴的選擇 133
第二節 以軸心的視角打造永續時尚人文生態系 134
一、 RTR的五大策略至台灣調整 134
二、RTR價值主張於台灣應用之調整 136
三、RTR目標客群於台灣應用之調整 137
四、台灣的時尚服飾共享租賃 138
第三節 學術貢獻 150
第四節 研究限制與建議 150
參考文獻 152
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dc.format.extent 7884836 bytes-
dc.format.mimetype application/pdf-
dc.source.uri (資料來源) http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0109364126en_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 需求zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 生態系zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 生態系佈建zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 循環經濟zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Demand-side perspectiveen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Business ecosystemen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Establishment of a Business Ecosystemen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) Circular economyen_US
dc.title (題名) 時尚服飾永續循環經濟研究 - 從需求端觀點討論生態系的佈建zh_TW
dc.title (題名) A Study on the Sustainable Circular Economy of Fashion Apparel - Exploring the Establishment of a Business Ecosystem from the Demand-Side Perspectiveen_US
dc.type (資料類型) thesisen_US
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