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題名 時尚服飾永續循環經濟研究 - 從需求端觀點討論生態系的佈建
A Study on the Sustainable Circular Economy of Fashion Apparel - Exploring the Establishment of a Business Ecosystem from the Demand-Side Perspective作者 曹開昱
Tso, Kai-Yu貢獻者 吳思華
WU,SIH-HUA
曹開昱
Tso, Kai-Yu關鍵詞 需求
生態系
生態系佈建
循環經濟
Demand-side perspective
Business ecosystem
Establishment of a Business Ecosystem
Circular economy日期 2023 上傳時間 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8) 摘要 在快時尚產業蓬勃發展的現代社會中,衍生出了許多資源浪費與污染的議題,許 多新創事業試圖以處理淘汰的二手衣,緩解這個社會問題,然而以線性經濟的思維能 做的改善有限。因此本研究藉由探討美國第一家成功 IPO 的女裝租賃公司 Rent the Runway(以下簡稱 RTR),其對消費者需求的洞察與為滿足需求所進行的生態系佈建 跟生態系的演化,提供台灣新創事業以循環經濟的角度規劃女裝事業的策略建議。本研究採個案研究法為研究方法,並以次級資料的蒐集來分析個案資料。研究結 果發現,RTR 能將服飾共享租賃事業成功完成 IPO,係因將服飾共享租賃的價值融入 女性的日常生活中,並且與相關的合作夥伴有良好的合作方式與互利機制,持續吸引 服飾品牌進入 RTR 生態系內提供商品。為了瞭解如在台灣搭建循環時尚生態系統,本研究亦研究了台灣的服裝產業現 況、台美之間的地理環境與物流基礎設施的差異、台美人民的社交與穿衣習慣差異, 並藉由對 RTR 的發展研究,提出在台灣應以社會企業的模式推廣共享時尚對社會環境 的正面意義,以 B2B 的方式與企業合作,並藉企業的力量將時尚服飾的循環經濟成為 民眾的穿衣新習慣。
In modern society where the fast fashion industry is thriving, many issues of resource waste and pollution have emerged. Many startups are attempting to address this social problem by dealing with discarded second-hand clothing. However, the improvements that can be made through linear economic thinking are limited. Therefore, this study explores Rent the Runway(RTR), the first women`s clothing rental company in the United States to go public, examining its insights into consumer demand and the establishment and evolution of an ecosystem based on meeting those needs. The study aims to provide suggestions for Taiwanese startups in planning their business strategies from a circular economy perspective.This study adopts a case study approach as the research method and analyzes the case data through the collection of secondary data. The research findings indicate that RTR`s success in completing an IPO in the fashion sharing and rental business is attributed to incorporating the value of fashion sharing and rental into women`s daily lives and maintaining a good cooperative approach and mutually beneficial mechanisms with relevant partners, which continuously attracts fashion brands to provide goods within the RTR ecosystem.To understand how to build a circular fashion ecosystem in Taiwan, this study also investigates the current situation of the clothing industry in Taiwan, the differences in geographical environment and logistics infrastructure between Taiwan and the United States, and the differences in social interactions and dressing habits between Taiwanese and Americans. By studying the development of RTR, the study proposes promoting the positive impact of shared fashion on the social environment in Taiwan through a social enterprise model, collaborating with businesses in a B2B manner, and leveraging the power of enterprises to transform the sustainable circular economy of fashion and change people`s dressing habits.參考文獻 一、中文文獻吳思華(2022)。《尋找策略典範3.0:人文創新H-EHA模式》。台北市:遠流齋藤孝浩(2020)。《UNIQLO和ZARA的熱銷學》。林瓊華譯。台北市:商業週刊詹宜佩(2004)。以服裝興趣、動機探討流行商品使用共同設計意願之研究─NIKE球鞋為例。淡江大學國際貿易學系國際企業學碩士班學位論文。舒亦齡(2018)。探討會員制服裝訂閱模式之消費者態度與經營挑戰-以B公司為例。國立政治大學企業管理研究所(MBA學位學程)學位論文。簡嘉萱(2020)。以聯合分析法探討女性職場青年對形象管理屬性偏好。輔仁大學織品服裝學系碩士在職專班學位論文。Adner, R.(2022)。《生態系競爭策略:重新定義價值結構,在轉型中辨識正確的賽局,掌握策略工具,贏得先機》。黃庭敏譯。台北:天下雜誌。Christensen, C. M., Hall, T., Dillon K., Duncan D. S.(2017)。《創新的用途理論:掌握消費者選擇,創新不必碰運氣》。洪慧芳譯。台北:天下雜誌。二、英文文獻Adner, R. (2017). Ecosystem as structure: An actionable construct for strategy. Journal of management, 43(1), 39-58.Bayus, B. L., & Shane, S. (2008). Understanding customer needs. 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Renting fashion with strategic customers in the sharing economy, International Journal of Production Economics, Volume 218, 2019, Pages 185-195.三、網路資料工商時報(2020)。紡織-挾技術優勢搶攻後疫情時代新商機。取自:https://ctee.com.tw/topic/2020tw0050/tex文化內容策進院(2021)。台灣文化創意產業年報。取自:https://taicca.tw/uploads/userfiles/2021%E8%87%BA%E7%81%A3%E6%96%87%E5%8C%96%E5%89%B5%E6%84%8F%E7%94%A2%E6%A5%AD%E7%99%BC%E5%B1%95%E5%B9%B4%E5%A0%B1.pdf文化部(2019)。時尚跨界整合旗艦計畫(108-111,經濟部工業局&文化部)。取自:https://tech.culture.tw/home/zh-tw/plan/40243未來流通研究所(2020)。台灣「電商物流」產業競爭地圖。取自:https://www.mirai.com.tw/2020-taiwan-ec-logistics-industry-map-diagram/百科知識(2023)。中西服裝文化比較。取自:https://www.easyatm.com.tw/wiki/%E4%B8%AD%E8%A5%BF%E6%9C%8D%E8%A3%9D%E6%96%87%E5%8C%96%E6%AF%94%E8%BC%83紡拓會(2022)。取自:https://www.textiles.org.tw/ttf/main/content/wHandMenuFile.ashx?file_id=1陳宗慶(2022)。工業局推動多元創新數位時尚平台。工商時報。取自:https://ctee.com.tw/industrynews/technology/761402.html經濟部工業局 (2021)。 紡織相關產業專案計畫說明會簡報。取自:https://www.moeaidb.gov.tw/ctlr?PRO=executive.rwdExecutiveInfoView&id=15893ABC News. (2018). How Rent the Runway is attempting to revolutionize the way we shop. 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePDpoWrQ73M&t=173sCBS Mornings. (2015). Rent the Runway: An inside look at the tech startup`s success. 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyvfsi3MX-MCunningham, C. (2015). Check Out Birchbo’s New Store-in-Store at Rent the Runway Georgetown. WASHINGTONIAN. 取自:https://www.washingtonian.com/2015/11/10/check-out-birchboxs-new-store-in-store-at-rent-the-runway-georgetown/DraperTV. (2016). Open Q&A about Rent the Runway, CEO of Rent the Runway Jennifer Hyman. 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjmSDeK4_x4&t=631sDraperTV. (2016). The Business of Rentable Fashion, CEO of Rent the Runway Jennifer Hyman. 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZLYWDxDvQIDraperTV. (2016). The Supply & Demand of RTR, CEO of Rent the Runway Jennifer Hyman. 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYFWpJvq6DUEisenmann, T. R. & Winig, L. (2011). Rent the Runway. Harvard Business Review. 取自:https://store.hbr.org/product/rent-the-runway/812077Ell, K. (2020). Rent the Runway Permanently Closing All Stores. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. 取自:https://wwd.com/business-news/retail/rent-the-runway-closing-stores-1203700039/Erica (2020). Taiwan Dress Code for Women (It May Surprise You!). 取自:https://travelswitherica.com/taiwan-dress-code/Euromonitor International.(2018). Apparel and Footwear in Taiwan. 取自:https://www.euromonitor.com/apparel-and-footwear-in-taiwan/reportFOX 5 New York. (2017). Rent the Runway Flagship Store in NYC. 取自https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sE-DClvmPW8&t=126sGustafson, K. (2016). As online sales reach new highs, Rent the Runway goes analog. CNBC. 取自:https://www.cnbc.com/2016/12/05/as-online-sales-reach-new-highs-rent-the-runway-goes-analog.htmlHopkins, K. & Roshitsh, K. (2019). Will There Be Drop-off Drama for Rent the Runway and WeWork? 取自:https://wwd.com/feature/drop-off-drama-rent-the-runway-and-weworks-partnership-1203339440/Kemp, S. (2022). DIGITAL 2022: TAIWAN. 取自:https://datareportal.com/reports/digital-2022-taiwanLacombe, G. (2019). Rent the Runway launches closet concierge service with W Hotels. FASHION NETWORK. 取自:https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Rent-the-runway-launches-closet-concierge-service-with-w-hotels,1165833.html#:~:text=Launched%20on%20December%205%2C%20the,climate%20of%20the%20local%20areaLawson. (2019). Rent the Runway Campus Rep Program. CAMPUS COMMANDOS. 取自:https://www.campuscommandos.com/rent-the-runway-campus-rep-program-is-perfect-for-fashionistas/Lieber, C. (2019). Rent the Runway and West Elm are partnering to rent out blankets and pillows. VOX. 取自:https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/3/7/18253796/rent-the-runway-west-elm-home-goods-sharing-economyLieber, C. (2019). Rent the Runway Offers Cash and Apologies to Angry Customers. The Business of Fashion. 取自:https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/rent-the-runway-marv-cunningham-supply-chain/#:~:text=Technology-,Rent%20the%20Runway%20Offers%20Cash%20and%20Apologies%20to%20Angry%20Customers,complaints%20about%20supply%20chain%20failuresRecode. (2018). Rent the Runway CEO Jennifer Hyman envisions closets "moving into the cloud". 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar5I1hDZrrQRecode. (2018). Rent the Runway CEO Jennifer Hyman envisions closets "moving into the cloud". 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar5I1hDZrrQRecode. (2019). Rent the Runway CEO Jennifer Hyman, Full interview, Code Commerce 2019. 取自:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEibrIzOgiYRTR. (2021). Rent the Runway Annual report 2021. 取自:https://investors.renttherunway.com/financial-information/annual-reports-proxyRTR. (2022). Rent the Runway company overview investor presentation April 2022. 取自:https://investors.renttherunway.com/RTR. (2021). Rent the Runway Commissions First Comprehensive Study of Clothing Rental Model’s Impact; Finds Renting Yields Net Environmental Savings Compared to Buying Clothes. 取自:https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/rtr-commissions-first-comprehensive-study-clothing-rental-/Saks OFF 5TH. (2022). Saks OFF 5TH Partners with Rent the Runway to Offer Pre-Owned Fashion. CISION PR Newswire. 取自:https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/saks-off-5th-partners-with-rent-the-runway-to-offer-pre-owned-fashion-301594807.htmlSalpini, C. (2020). Rent the Runway to sell used garments through Nordstrom Rack. Retail Dive. 取自:https://www.retaildive.com/news/rent-the-runway-to-sell-used-garments-through-nordstrom-rack/570685/Steven, B. (2020). Rent the Runway hires string of former Amazon executives after last year’s logistics collapse. CHARGED. 取自:https://www.chargedretail.co.uk/2020/02/17/rent-the-runway-hires-string-of-former-amazon-executives-after-last-years-logistics-collapse/Team thredUP. (2020). Rent the Runway and thredUP Collab to Extend the Life of Designer Clothing with Rental Retirees. THREDIT. 取自:https://www.thredup.com/bg/p/rent-the-runway-thredup-partnershipThomas, L. (2019). Rent the Runway is bringing its drop boxes to Nordstrom stores. CNBC. 取自:https://www.cnbc.com/2019/06/27/rent-the-runway-is-bringing-its-drop-boxes-to-nordstrom-stores.html#:~:text=Rent%20the%20Runway%20teams%20up,goal%20of%20scaling%20beyond%20thatThomas, L. (2019). Rent the Runway pauses taking new customers as inventory and supply chain issues mount. CNBC. 取自:https://www.cnbc.com/2019/09/27/rent-the-runway-stops-taking-new-customers-as-issues-mount.html#:~:text=Rent%20the%20Runway%20isn`t,keep%20up%20with%20customers`%20demandsTurk, R. (2019). Rent the Runway drastically expands Nordstrom partnership. Fashion United. 取自:https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/rent-the-runway-drastically-expands-nordstrom-partnership/2019111546239Turk, R. (2020). Rent the Runway announces "RTR Revive" partnership with Nordstrom. Fashion United. 取自:https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/rent-the-runway-announces-rtr-revive-partnership-with-nordstrom/2020011631718United States Securities and Exchange Commission (2021). FORM S-1 Registration Statement Rent the Runway, INC. 取自:https://www.sec.gov/Archives/edgar/data/1468327/000119312521291103/d194411ds1.htmWells, G., Horwitz, J. & Seetharaman, D. (2021). Facebook Knows Instagram Is Toxic for Teen Girls, Company Documents Show. The wallstreet journal. 取自:https://www.wsj.com/articles/facebook-knows-instagram-is-toxic-for-teen-girls-company-documents-show-11631620739Wework Ideas. (2019). Entrepreneurs say the right clothes help them demand respect. Wework. 取自:https://www.wework.com/ideas/professional-development/management-leadership/entrepreneurs-say-the-right-clothes-help-them-demand-respectPremack, R. (2019). FedEx`s new service is delivering Rent the Runway in under 24 hours in New York City as the race for lightning-fast deliveries tightens. 取自: https://africa.businessinsider.com/fedexs-new-service-is-delivering-rent-the-runway-in-under-24-hours-in-new-york-city/6ypnslf 描述 碩士
國立政治大學
科技管理與智慧財產研究所
109364126資料來源 http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0109364126 資料類型 thesis dc.contributor.advisor 吳思華 zh_TW dc.contributor.advisor WU,SIH-HUA en_US dc.contributor.author (Authors) 曹開昱 zh_TW dc.contributor.author (Authors) Tso, Kai-Yu en_US dc.creator (作者) 曹開昱 zh_TW dc.creator (作者) Tso, Kai-Yu en_US dc.date (日期) 2023 en_US dc.date.accessioned 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8) - dc.date.available 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8) - dc.date.issued (上傳時間) 2-Aug-2023 14:12:05 (UTC+8) - dc.identifier (Other Identifiers) G0109364126 en_US dc.identifier.uri (URI) http://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/146604 - dc.description (描述) 碩士 zh_TW dc.description (描述) 國立政治大學 zh_TW dc.description (描述) 科技管理與智慧財產研究所 zh_TW dc.description (描述) 109364126 zh_TW dc.description.abstract (摘要) 在快時尚產業蓬勃發展的現代社會中,衍生出了許多資源浪費與污染的議題,許 多新創事業試圖以處理淘汰的二手衣,緩解這個社會問題,然而以線性經濟的思維能 做的改善有限。因此本研究藉由探討美國第一家成功 IPO 的女裝租賃公司 Rent the Runway(以下簡稱 RTR),其對消費者需求的洞察與為滿足需求所進行的生態系佈建 跟生態系的演化,提供台灣新創事業以循環經濟的角度規劃女裝事業的策略建議。本研究採個案研究法為研究方法,並以次級資料的蒐集來分析個案資料。研究結 果發現,RTR 能將服飾共享租賃事業成功完成 IPO,係因將服飾共享租賃的價值融入 女性的日常生活中,並且與相關的合作夥伴有良好的合作方式與互利機制,持續吸引 服飾品牌進入 RTR 生態系內提供商品。為了瞭解如在台灣搭建循環時尚生態系統,本研究亦研究了台灣的服裝產業現 況、台美之間的地理環境與物流基礎設施的差異、台美人民的社交與穿衣習慣差異, 並藉由對 RTR 的發展研究,提出在台灣應以社會企業的模式推廣共享時尚對社會環境 的正面意義,以 B2B 的方式與企業合作,並藉企業的力量將時尚服飾的循環經濟成為 民眾的穿衣新習慣。 zh_TW dc.description.abstract (摘要) In modern society where the fast fashion industry is thriving, many issues of resource waste and pollution have emerged. Many startups are attempting to address this social problem by dealing with discarded second-hand clothing. However, the improvements that can be made through linear economic thinking are limited. Therefore, this study explores Rent the Runway(RTR), the first women`s clothing rental company in the United States to go public, examining its insights into consumer demand and the establishment and evolution of an ecosystem based on meeting those needs. The study aims to provide suggestions for Taiwanese startups in planning their business strategies from a circular economy perspective.This study adopts a case study approach as the research method and analyzes the case data through the collection of secondary data. The research findings indicate that RTR`s success in completing an IPO in the fashion sharing and rental business is attributed to incorporating the value of fashion sharing and rental into women`s daily lives and maintaining a good cooperative approach and mutually beneficial mechanisms with relevant partners, which continuously attracts fashion brands to provide goods within the RTR ecosystem.To understand how to build a circular fashion ecosystem in Taiwan, this study also investigates the current situation of the clothing industry in Taiwan, the differences in geographical environment and logistics infrastructure between Taiwan and the United States, and the differences in social interactions and dressing habits between Taiwanese and Americans. By studying the development of RTR, the study proposes promoting the positive impact of shared fashion on the social environment in Taiwan through a social enterprise model, collaborating with businesses in a B2B manner, and leveraging the power of enterprises to transform the sustainable circular economy of fashion and change people`s dressing habits. en_US dc.description.tableofcontents 摘要 2Abstract 3目次 4表次 8圖次 10第壹章 研究緒論 11第一節 研究背景與動機 11第二節 研究目的與問題 12第貳章 文獻探討 14第一節 商業生態系 14一、商業生態系的定義 14二、種類 15三、組成要素 19四、生態系與供應鏈的相互關係 20五、小結 23第二節 生態系佈建 24一、佈建的方式 25二、建立生態系的三原則 26三、小結 27第三節 需求 28一、需求的定義與類型 28二、辨識需求的方式 31三、小結 34第四節 軸心公司的生存憑藉 35一、生態系成員的角色 35二、軸心公司的好處 36三、小結 36第五節 文獻小結 37第參章 研究方法 39第一節 本研究觀念性架構 39第二節 研究對象 40一、RTR簡介 40二、RTR社會貢獻 40三、台灣O公司 41四、研究進行方式 41第肆章 個案研究 44第一節 RTR 發展歷程 44第二節 顧客特性 46一、重視體驗並經常分享體驗 46二、熟悉購買使用權的消費方式 47三、穿完再退貨的行為 48第三節 數位平台 48一、提供共享租賃的品項與品項的演變 49二、服務方案 52三、以場合劃分的服飾類別 53四、消費者回饋與社群 54第四節 倉儲與物流 59ㄧ、倉儲系統 59二、雙向物流 61第五節 數據資源 62一、以數據資源進行營運優化 62二、以數據資源協助品牌成長 63第六節 RTR 實體體驗店與回收機制 65一、實體體驗店 65二、回收箱網絡 66第七節 服飾獲取與使用結束後去留 67第伍章 個案分析 72第一節 新需求分析 72一、「使用」比「擁有」更重要 72二、「使用權」優先的「訂閱」商業模式 73三、 創業切入點與發展路徑 75四、小結 76第二節 生態系成員尋找與合作方式 78一、 由外部進行「服飾設計與生產」、「運送與回收」及「服飾穿著」 78二、 自行營運「網站與訂單處理」與「倉儲與清洗」 80三、 品牌合作夥伴依需求拓展 – 從舞會利基到日常生活 81四、 與品牌的連結方式由淺入深:新增品牌寄租、獨家設計 83五、 從消費者生活場景尋找合作夥伴形成回收網路 84六、小結 86第三節 軸心生存憑藉 90一、給予消費者全新穿衣體驗、滿足環境友善的訴求 91二、使品牌獲得精細的數據、接觸尚未消費的顧客 91三、讓品牌不需額外投資物流中心來提供共享服務 93四、提升異業合作夥伴客戶的體驗,增加客流量 94五、小結 94第陸章 台灣的時尚人文創新 97第一節 台灣紡織業與成衣業概述 97一、定義與涵蓋範圍 97二、紡織業與成衣業概況 98三、小結 99第二節 台灣設計產業概述 99一、定義與涵蓋範圍 99二、設計品牌時尚產業概況 100三、台灣設計師困境 101四、小結 103第三節 台灣平價服裝主要參與品牌 103一、Zara的定位與經營理念 103二、Uniqlo的定位與經營理念 104三、美而快的定位與經營理念 105四、小結 106第四節 台灣政府對紡織與設計的政策支持與ESG規範 107一、時尚跨界整合旗艦計畫 107二、ESGs相關規範 108三、小結 111第五節 台美地理環境與物流基礎比較 111一、台灣地理環境地狹人稠 111二、台灣物流系統佈點密集 112三、小結 114第六節 台美穿著的需求差異 115一、台灣與美國社交與穿衣文化差異 115二、台灣與美國社會環境比較 119三、台灣女性需求探索-頻繁購買衣服的行為 127四、台灣民眾的環保意識程度高 129第柒章 結論與建議 131第一節 RTR創業發展五大策略 131一、創業切入點與發展路徑 131二、由外部進行服飾設計與製造 131三、自建倉儲與清洗系統 132四、訂閱制累積數據 133五、異業合作夥伴的選擇 133第二節 以軸心的視角打造永續時尚人文生態系 134一、 RTR的五大策略至台灣調整 134二、RTR價值主張於台灣應用之調整 136三、RTR目標客群於台灣應用之調整 137四、台灣的時尚服飾共享租賃 138第三節 學術貢獻 150第四節 研究限制與建議 150參考文獻 152 zh_TW dc.format.extent 7884836 bytes - dc.format.mimetype application/pdf - dc.source.uri (資料來源) http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0109364126 en_US dc.subject (關鍵詞) 需求 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 生態系 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 生態系佈建 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 循環經濟 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) Demand-side perspective en_US dc.subject (關鍵詞) Business ecosystem en_US dc.subject (關鍵詞) Establishment of a Business Ecosystem en_US dc.subject (關鍵詞) Circular economy en_US dc.title (題名) 時尚服飾永續循環經濟研究 - 從需求端觀點討論生態系的佈建 zh_TW dc.title (題名) A Study on the Sustainable Circular Economy of Fashion Apparel - Exploring the Establishment of a Business Ecosystem from the Demand-Side Perspective en_US dc.type (資料類型) thesis en_US dc.relation.reference (參考文獻) 一、中文文獻吳思華(2022)。《尋找策略典範3.0:人文創新H-EHA模式》。台北市:遠流齋藤孝浩(2020)。《UNIQLO和ZARA的熱銷學》。林瓊華譯。台北市:商業週刊詹宜佩(2004)。以服裝興趣、動機探討流行商品使用共同設計意願之研究─NIKE球鞋為例。淡江大學國際貿易學系國際企業學碩士班學位論文。舒亦齡(2018)。探討會員制服裝訂閱模式之消費者態度與經營挑戰-以B公司為例。國立政治大學企業管理研究所(MBA學位學程)學位論文。簡嘉萱(2020)。以聯合分析法探討女性職場青年對形象管理屬性偏好。輔仁大學織品服裝學系碩士在職專班學位論文。Adner, R.(2022)。《生態系競爭策略:重新定義價值結構,在轉型中辨識正確的賽局,掌握策略工具,贏得先機》。黃庭敏譯。台北:天下雜誌。Christensen, C. 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