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題名 「做」女人的難關：胖女性逛街購衣經驗中的肥胖污名與自我認同初探
Fat Women’s clothes shopping experiences: Fat Stigma, Self-identity and Doing Gender作者 郝天行
Hao, Tien Hsing貢獻者 方念萱
郝天行
Hao, Tien Hsing關鍵詞 胖污名
消費
做性別
自我認同
逛街
衣物日期 2012 上傳時間 1-May-2013 11:47:43 (UTC+8) 摘要 我將逛街購衣經驗視為日常生活「做（doing）」性別的關鍵過程，並探討胖女性在其中如何與肥胖污名對話。本文「胖女性」的定義為：曾有身體大小超過多數衣物消費場所中的衣物尺寸，且在逛街購衣經驗中感知到肥胖污名，而有相關負面感受如挫折不安感的女性認同者。通過收集網路言論、訪談14位胖女性後，研究結果如下：尚未進入購衣活動前，胖女性已在商圈環境中感受到胖身體的低階級；進入購衣活動後，「體型」則成為支配胖女性活動空間與社交角色的關鍵因素。逛街購衣過程中，胖女性應對肥胖污名所採取的戰術大致可分為融入、旁觀、衝撞三種類型。胖女性反思逛街購衣經驗時，會通過將自己的身體正常化，以及從主體位置出發和時尚論述對話等方式來開展能動性、接納自己的身體。逛街購衣情境交織胖女性在不同時空情境扮演的女性角色（如做為女職員、女兒、女友），可看出胖女性和瘦（正常）女性「做」女人的歷程具有相當大的差異──胖女性「做」女人的緊張挫折感幾乎全面滲透在日常生活各領域中。但任何一個情境中的環節鬆動，就可能給胖女性反思、行動的空間。胖身體能正當化自己的資源太過稀少，購衣管道、購衣空間、衣物選擇的多元化；大眾媒體時尚論述中女性多元典範的建立，是此情境中提供賦能的重要條件。若要反轉肥胖污名，建議日後研究必須小心回到主體所在情境定義「胖」，不要直覺地沿用BMI等主流論述，才可覺察「胖」的多元意義；胖女性購衣經驗中「做」性別的過程，顯現出「體型」已成為個體性別建制過程的重要支配因素。本文以某些女性的經驗為例，但這種狀況發生在各種性別認同者身上，「體型」急需被建制為台灣性別運動的重要主題。
I view clothes shopping experiences as key processes of “doing gender” in everyday life, in which fat women often struggle with fat stigmas. The main issues to be discussed in this article are thus the following: 1) How do fat women cope with fat stigmas during these processes? 2) What are the connections between fat women’s self-identities, gender-doing and their clothes shopping experiences? In this context, a "fat woman" is defined as: A woman (who identifies herself as a woman) always gets negative feelings through clothes shopping experiences due to her outsized body size(s).Research data are collected from forum discussions and 14 interviewees. The results are as follows: Before encountering clothes shopping situations, fat women are already devaluating their fat bodies in shopping space, e.g. on streets. Once fat women enter clothes shopping processes, their "body sizes" become the key factor that limits fat women’s activity within certain places and the social roles they play. There are three types of coping tactics: integrating, onlooking and resisting. Fat women show their reflexivity on clothes shopping experiences through normalizing their bodies, negotiating with fashion discourses from the position of subjects, and accepting their bodies in the way they are.Clothes shopping experiences interweave different daily encounters in fat women’s everyday life, in which they play various kinds of “gendered roles” such as female employee, daughter or girlfriend. Summing from the above, I notices that the different gender doing experiences between “thin (normal) women” and “fat women” usually make the latter more frustrated in most daily encounters. In clothes shopping context, resources for justifying fat bodies are needed. As to the empowerment of fat women, diversity of shopping channels, places and clothes are as important as establishing different fashion discourses, e.g. fat female fashion icons.To reverse fat stigmas, I suggest that we avoid defining “fat” intuitively by medical discourses (e.g. BMI) but by situating fat bodies as subjects, thus we will not be subject to dominated fat discourses and thereby limit the rich meanings of fat bodies. Fat women’s clothes shopping experiences show that “ body sizes” is a key factor affecting individuals in doing one’s gender. In Taiwan, there is still room for us to raise the awareness of “body size issue” and further address it as a gender issue.參考文獻 王宏仁譯（2010）。《消費社會學》，台北：群學。（原書Corrigan, P. [1997]. The sociology of consumption: An introduction. London, UK: Sage.）王志弘、許妍飛譯（2006）。《社會認同》，台北：巨流。（原書Jenkins R. [1996]. Social Identity. London, UK: Routledge.）王宣蘋（2008）。《瘦不了的苦：網路媒體美貌迷思建構及大尺碼女裝購買者認知研究》。交通大學傳播研究所碩士論文。何定照譯（2007）。《像女孩那樣丟球：論女性身體經驗》，台北：商周。（原書Young, I. M. [2005]. On Female Body Experience: “Throwing Like a Girl” and Other Essays. New York, NY: Oxford University Press New York.）李玉瑛（2006）。〈Shopping、血拼、瞎拼：逛街購物研究的初探〉，《臺灣社會學刊》，37：207-236。周群英譯（2005）。《日常生活與文化理論》，台北：韋伯。（原書 Highmore, B. [2002]. Everyday Life and Culture Theory: An Introduction. London, UK: Routledge.）林文琪譯（2006）。《認同與差異》，台北：韋伯。（原書Woodward, K. [1997]. Identity and difference. London, UK: Sage.）林晉寬、徐筱芸、葉香妤（2010）。〈客製化服裝技術之發展軌跡〉。《中華管理評論國際學報》，13(4)：1-24。林純德（2009）。〈成為一隻「熊」：台灣男同志「熊族」的認同型塑與性／性別／身體展演〉，《台灣社會研究季刊》，76：57-117。胡紹嘉（2008）。《敘事、自我與認同──從文本考察到身體探究》。台北：秀威。張錦華（2002）。《女為悅己者「瘦」？──媒介效果與主體研究》。台北：正中書局。陳明珠（2003）。〈媒體再現與認同政治〉，《中國傳媒報告》，2(4)：88-94。陳明珠（2006）。《身體傳播──一個女性身體論述的研究實踐》。台北：五南。陳冠廷譯（2003）。《血拼經驗》，台北：弘智。（原書 Falk, P. & Campbell, C. ed. [1997]. The Shopping Experience. London, UK: Sage.）曾凡慈譯（2010）。《污名：管理受損身分的筆記》，台北：群學。（原書Goffman, E. [1963]. Stigma: Notes on The Management of Spoiled Identity. Englewood Cliffs , NJ: Prentice-Hall.）甯應斌（主編）（2004）。《身體政治與媒體批判》。桃園：中央大學性／別研究室。甯應斌、何春蕤（2012）。《民困愁城：憂鬱症、情緒管理、現代性的黑暗面》。台北：台灣社會研究雜誌社。黃詠梅（2003年12月15日）。〈塑身運動、厭食症到胖妹驕傲的思考：一個女性主體與女性身體的提問〉，《文化研究月報》。取自http://www.cc.ncu.edu.tw/~csa/oldjournal/34/journal_park285.htm趙旭東、方文譯（2005）。《現代性與自我認同》，台北：左岸文化。（原書Giddens, A. [1991].Modernity and Self-Identity. Stanford, CA : Stanford University Press.）劉泗翰譯（2004）。《性／別──多元時代的性別角力》，台北：書林。（原書Connell, R. [2002]. Gender. Cambridge, UK: Polity.）蔡佩君譯（2002）。《後現代瘦身主義》，台北：時報出版。（原書Klein, R. [1996]. Eat Fat. New York, NY: Pantheon.）蔡培元（2008）。《我僅僅只是一個胖子─記述一段朝向自在的歷程》。陽明大學衛生福利研究所碩士論文。鄭斐文（2012）。〈案例二 肥胖 BMI 指數高，就一定不健康？〉，王秀雲、林文源、林宜平、邱大昕、陳信行、陳政宏、陳曉齡、郭文華、曾凡慈、楊弘任、鄭斐文、戴東源、羅士翔（著），《意外多重奏：STS如何重組真相》，頁54-77。台北：行人。鄭靜宜譯（2004）。《流行溝通》。台北：桂冠。（原書Barnard, M. [2002]. Fashion as Communication. London, UK and New York, NY: Routledge.）盧姮倩（2012年 1月 19日）。〈虛榮尺碼效應？UNIQLO尺寸小2吋 讓你感覺自己「還很瘦」〉。《ETtoday新聞》。取自： http://www.ettoday.net/news/20120119/20363.htm#ixzz2CNYHbOv8Adrono, T. W. (2002). How to Look at Television. In Tiedmann, R. (Ed.), The Cultural Industry: Selected Essays on Mass Culture. (pp. 158-177). London, UK and New York, NY: Routledge.Baudrillard, J. (2000). Beyond Use Value. In Lee, M. (Ed.), The Consumer Society Reader. (pp. 19-30). London, UK: Blackwell.Bernard, J., Caracciolo Jr., J. M., Finerman, W. and Rosenfelt, K. (Producers), & Frankel, D. (Director). (2006). The Devil Wears Prada[Motion picture]. United State: 20th Century FoxColls, R. (2004). Looking alright, feeling alright: Emotions, Sizing and the Geographies of Women`s Experiences of Clothing Consumption. Social & Cultural Geography, 5(4), 583-596.Colls, R. (2006). Outsize/Outside: Bodily bignesses and the emotional experiences of British women shopping for clothes. Gender, Place and Culture, 13(5), 529–545. Cooper, C. (2008, September). What’s Fat Activism? University of Limerick Department of Sociology Working Paper Series, Article WP2008-02. Retrieved November 11, 2012, from http://www3.ul.ie/sociology/docstore/workingpapers/wp2008-02.pdfCooper, C. (2009). Maybe It Should Be Called Fat American Studies. In Rothblum, E. and Solovay, S. (Eds.), The Fat Studies Reader. (pp. 327-333). New York, NY: NYU Press.Cover of Plus Model Magazine. (2012, July). Retrieved November 1, 2012, from http://www.plus-model-mag.com/plus-model-magazine/magazine-archives/de Certeau, M. (1993). The Practice of Everyday Life (S. Rendall, Trans.). Berkeley, CA: University of California Press. (Original work published 1984)Entwistle, J.(2000). The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory. Cambridge, UK: Polity.Guy, A., & Banim, M. (2000). Personal Collections: women`s clothing use and identity. Journal of Gender Studies, 9(3), 313-327.Kjerstin, E. (2008, January 2). Thick Description, Fat Talk: An Ethnography of Embodied Interactions Between Women in a “Plus Sized” Clothing Store. Thinking Gender Papers, UCLA Center for the Study of Women. Retrieved November 2, 2012, from http://escholarship.org/uc/item/75j8103kLaitala, K., Klepp, I. G., Hauge, B. (2011). Matierialised Ideals: Size and Beauty. Culture Unbound, 3, 19-41.Maguire, J. S. & Stanway, K. (2008). Looking good: Consumption and the problems of self-production. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 11(1), 63-81.Marx, K. (2000). The Fetishism of the Commodity and its Secret. In Lee, M. (Ed.), The Consumer Society Reader. (pp. 10-18). London, UK: Blackwell.Puhl, R. M. & Heuer, C. A. (2009). The stigma of obesity: a review and update. Obesity, 17(5), 941-964.Rothblum, E. & Solovay, S. (Eds.). (2009). The Fat Studies Reader. New York, NY: NYU Press.Schenk, C. T. & Holman, R. H. (1980). A sociological Approach to Brand Choice: The Concept of Situational Self Image [Electronic version]. Advances in Consumer Research, 7, 610-614.West, C. & Zimmerman, D. H. (1987). Doing Gender. Gender and Society, 1(2), 125-151. 描述 碩士
國立政治大學
新聞研究所
98451001
101資料來源 http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0098451001 資料類型 thesis dc.contributor.advisor 方念萱 zh_TW dc.contributor.author (Authors) 郝天行 zh_TW dc.contributor.author (Authors) Hao, Tien Hsing en_US dc.creator (作者) 郝天行 zh_TW dc.creator (作者) Hao, Tien Hsing en_US dc.date (日期) 2012 en_US dc.date.accessioned 1-May-2013 11:47:43 (UTC+8) - dc.date.available 1-May-2013 11:47:43 (UTC+8) - dc.date.issued (上傳時間) 1-May-2013 11:47:43 (UTC+8) - dc.identifier (Other Identifiers) G0098451001 en_US dc.identifier.uri (URI) http://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/57960 - dc.description (描述) 碩士 zh_TW dc.description (描述) 國立政治大學 zh_TW dc.description (描述) 新聞研究所 zh_TW dc.description (描述) 98451001 zh_TW dc.description (描述) 101 zh_TW dc.description.abstract (摘要) 我將逛街購衣經驗視為日常生活「做（doing）」性別的關鍵過程，並探討胖女性在其中如何與肥胖污名對話。本文「胖女性」的定義為：曾有身體大小超過多數衣物消費場所中的衣物尺寸，且在逛街購衣經驗中感知到肥胖污名，而有相關負面感受如挫折不安感的女性認同者。通過收集網路言論、訪談14位胖女性後，研究結果如下：尚未進入購衣活動前，胖女性已在商圈環境中感受到胖身體的低階級；進入購衣活動後，「體型」則成為支配胖女性活動空間與社交角色的關鍵因素。逛街購衣過程中，胖女性應對肥胖污名所採取的戰術大致可分為融入、旁觀、衝撞三種類型。胖女性反思逛街購衣經驗時，會通過將自己的身體正常化，以及從主體位置出發和時尚論述對話等方式來開展能動性、接納自己的身體。逛街購衣情境交織胖女性在不同時空情境扮演的女性角色（如做為女職員、女兒、女友），可看出胖女性和瘦（正常）女性「做」女人的歷程具有相當大的差異──胖女性「做」女人的緊張挫折感幾乎全面滲透在日常生活各領域中。但任何一個情境中的環節鬆動，就可能給胖女性反思、行動的空間。胖身體能正當化自己的資源太過稀少，購衣管道、購衣空間、衣物選擇的多元化；大眾媒體時尚論述中女性多元典範的建立，是此情境中提供賦能的重要條件。若要反轉肥胖污名，建議日後研究必須小心回到主體所在情境定義「胖」，不要直覺地沿用BMI等主流論述，才可覺察「胖」的多元意義；胖女性購衣經驗中「做」性別的過程，顯現出「體型」已成為個體性別建制過程的重要支配因素。本文以某些女性的經驗為例，但這種狀況發生在各種性別認同者身上，「體型」急需被建制為台灣性別運動的重要主題。 zh_TW dc.description.abstract (摘要) I view clothes shopping experiences as key processes of “doing gender” in everyday life, in which fat women often struggle with fat stigmas. The main issues to be discussed in this article are thus the following: 1) How do fat women cope with fat stigmas during these processes? 2) What are the connections between fat women’s self-identities, gender-doing and their clothes shopping experiences? In this context, a "fat woman" is defined as: A woman (who identifies herself as a woman) always gets negative feelings through clothes shopping experiences due to her outsized body size(s).Research data are collected from forum discussions and 14 interviewees. The results are as follows: Before encountering clothes shopping situations, fat women are already devaluating their fat bodies in shopping space, e.g. on streets. Once fat women enter clothes shopping processes, their "body sizes" become the key factor that limits fat women’s activity within certain places and the social roles they play. There are three types of coping tactics: integrating, onlooking and resisting. Fat women show their reflexivity on clothes shopping experiences through normalizing their bodies, negotiating with fashion discourses from the position of subjects, and accepting their bodies in the way they are.Clothes shopping experiences interweave different daily encounters in fat women’s everyday life, in which they play various kinds of “gendered roles” such as female employee, daughter or girlfriend. Summing from the above, I notices that the different gender doing experiences between “thin (normal) women” and “fat women” usually make the latter more frustrated in most daily encounters. In clothes shopping context, resources for justifying fat bodies are needed. As to the empowerment of fat women, diversity of shopping channels, places and clothes are as important as establishing different fashion discourses, e.g. fat female fashion icons.To reverse fat stigmas, I suggest that we avoid defining “fat” intuitively by medical discourses (e.g. BMI) but by situating fat bodies as subjects, thus we will not be subject to dominated fat discourses and thereby limit the rich meanings of fat bodies. Fat women’s clothes shopping experiences show that “ body sizes” is a key factor affecting individuals in doing one’s gender. In Taiwan, there is still room for us to raise the awareness of “body size issue” and further address it as a gender issue. en_US dc.description.tableofcontents 第壹章、現象初探 1第貳章、文獻探討與研究問題 9第一節、自我認同與肥胖污名 91. 自我認同：從情境中反思行動而生的「我」 92. 「污名」概念與肥胖污名 13第二節、定義「胖女性」 19第三節、性別、衣物消費與逛街購衣情境 221. 性別是「做」出來的 232. 消費者的能動性 263. 衣物消費與「做」女人 31(1) 消費衣物做為建構自我的實踐 32(2) 在逛街情境中「做」女人 354. 逛街購衣情境中的邊緣身體 38第四節、研究意義與研究問題 41第參章、資料蒐集方法 44第肆章、研究結果 53第一節、差異浮現：逛街購衣脈絡中的肥胖污名 531. 走入商圈環境：顯現胖身體的低階級 542. 進入衣物店面：「體型差異」做為支配購衣活動的重要脈絡 60(1) 購衣活動空間的支配 60a. 「一般尺碼」與「中大尺碼」的等級與空間分化 60b. 與店員的互動 71(2) 社交角色的支配 753. 戰術：融入、旁觀、衝撞 78第二節、「做」女人：逛街購衣脈絡中肥胖污名經驗的反思與行動 801. 逛街購衣經驗與胖女性的身體 81(1) 正常的女人：把身體正當化的論述 81(2) 胖女性的美：胖身體與時尚論述的對話 852. 逛街購衣經驗中「做女性角色」的胖女性 94第三節、小結：尋求賦能資源 97第伍章、總結與討論 106第一節、站在主體情境位置考察「胖」的意義 109第二節、「胖」與「做性別」 110參考文獻 114附錄：訪談大綱 119 zh_TW dc.format.extent 1439883 bytes - dc.format.mimetype application/pdf - dc.language.iso en_US - dc.source.uri (資料來源) http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0098451001 en_US dc.subject (關鍵詞) 胖污名 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 消費 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 做性別 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 自我認同 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 逛街 zh_TW dc.subject (關鍵詞) 衣物 zh_TW dc.title (題名) 「做」女人的難關：胖女性逛街購衣經驗中的肥胖污名與自我認同初探 zh_TW dc.title (題名) Fat Women’s clothes shopping experiences: Fat Stigma, Self-identity and Doing Gender en_US dc.type (資料類型) thesis en dc.relation.reference (參考文獻) 王宏仁譯（2010）。《消費社會學》，台北：群學。（原書Corrigan, P. [1997]. The sociology of consumption: An introduction. London, UK: Sage.）王志弘、許妍飛譯（2006）。《社會認同》，台北：巨流。（原書Jenkins R. [1996]. Social Identity. London, UK: Routledge.）王宣蘋（2008）。《瘦不了的苦：網路媒體美貌迷思建構及大尺碼女裝購買者認知研究》。交通大學傳播研究所碩士論文。何定照譯（2007）。《像女孩那樣丟球：論女性身體經驗》，台北：商周。（原書Young, I. M. [2005]. On Female Body Experience: “Throwing Like a Girl” and Other Essays. New York, NY: Oxford University Press New York.）李玉瑛（2006）。〈Shopping、血拼、瞎拼：逛街購物研究的初探〉，《臺灣社會學刊》，37：207-236。周群英譯（2005）。《日常生活與文化理論》，台北：韋伯。（原書 Highmore, B. [2002]. Everyday Life and Culture Theory: An Introduction. London, UK: Routledge.）林文琪譯（2006）。《認同與差異》，台北：韋伯。（原書Woodward, K. [1997]. Identity and difference. 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