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題名 十六、十七世紀英格蘭的服飾論述與國族認同 作者 林美香 貢獻者 歷史系 日期 2015-06 上傳時間 6-Jul-2015 15:05:22 (UTC+8) 摘要 本文探討十六、十七世紀英格蘭人如何透過服飾及其與身體的連結，建立國族想像和國族認同。本文首先從較大的文化背景來瞭解服飾與國族的連結關係，觀察歐洲在經歷文藝復興運動、印刷術普及，以及海外探險等歷史變化後，服飾如何透過印刷出版的「服飾書」（costumebooks）與「地圖」，成為定義國族差異的主要標誌。接著進入英格蘭本身的歷史情境，探索英格蘭人如何從服飾問題出發，思考並建構自身的國族形象。本文主要利用的史料為民間文人的作品，如論冊（pamphlets）、遊記、講道（sermons）、地圖等，它們主要為市場、大眾而寫，表達了當時文人對國族的想像，及對「英格蘭屬性」（Englishness）的理解。由於此時期的國家概念，多以「身體」的意象表達，稱為「政治體」（bodypolitic），本文也利用身體的意象，討論當時三種對國家之身體（簡稱「國體」）不同的想像，分別是：「裸露的國體」、「混雜的國體」與「文雅的國體」。前兩者代表負面的批判，也是深沈的自省，展現英格蘭人遭受異國文化入侵而面臨的產業危機、道德腐化與認同問題；最後則是在前兩者的基礎上，追尋英格蘭美好過往，重建民族認同，以及剛強、文雅等民族特質。此三者象徵著英格蘭國體三種不同的穿著方式，也是三種不同的國族特質，它們都顯示了服飾是此時期建構英格蘭國族認同重要的載體。 This article studies the construction of English national identity through the discourse of clothing and its connection with the body in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It begins with a discussion of how nations were defined by clothing in Europe during the periods of the Renaissance and the Exploration, and particularly through printed ＂costume books＂ and maps. Then it moves to England, examining English discourse of dress and the wool cloth industry articulated by the popular writings of this period, such as pamphlets, travel writing, sermons, and maps. Such works not only expressed the solidarity of English national identity, but also displayed various textual and visual representations of Englishness. This article then connects the issue of clothing and the metaphor of the body to categorize their representations into three different images of the national body, which actually are three modes of clothing: the naked national body, the composite, and the civilized. The former two are negative representations of the English nation attributing to its lack of national costume and its inconsistency of dress under the influence of foreign fashions. English writers discerned the decay of the nation in their discussions of the country`s naked body and its composite mode of clothing, but at the same time, they searched for the reasons for this decay and England`s true national character. Those efforts led to a vision of a civilized national body that was founded upon true civility and an ordered society. This vision was also employed to promote traditional morality and the wool cloth industry. No matter which representations of the national body were promoted, they all illustrated that clothing stood out as one of the most powerful mechanisms to convey and fabricate national identity in early modern England. 關聯 新史學, 26(2), 51-130 資料類型 article dc.contributor 歷史系 - dc.creator (作者) 林美香 - dc.date (日期) 2015-06 - dc.date.accessioned 6-Jul-2015 15:05:22 (UTC+8) - dc.date.available 6-Jul-2015 15:05:22 (UTC+8) - dc.date.issued (上傳時間) 6-Jul-2015 15:05:22 (UTC+8) - dc.identifier.uri (URI) http://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/76316 - dc.description.abstract (摘要) 本文探討十六、十七世紀英格蘭人如何透過服飾及其與身體的連結，建立國族想像和國族認同。本文首先從較大的文化背景來瞭解服飾與國族的連結關係，觀察歐洲在經歷文藝復興運動、印刷術普及，以及海外探險等歷史變化後，服飾如何透過印刷出版的「服飾書」（costumebooks）與「地圖」，成為定義國族差異的主要標誌。接著進入英格蘭本身的歷史情境，探索英格蘭人如何從服飾問題出發，思考並建構自身的國族形象。本文主要利用的史料為民間文人的作品，如論冊（pamphlets）、遊記、講道（sermons）、地圖等，它們主要為市場、大眾而寫，表達了當時文人對國族的想像，及對「英格蘭屬性」（Englishness）的理解。由於此時期的國家概念，多以「身體」的意象表達，稱為「政治體」（bodypolitic），本文也利用身體的意象，討論當時三種對國家之身體（簡稱「國體」）不同的想像，分別是：「裸露的國體」、「混雜的國體」與「文雅的國體」。前兩者代表負面的批判，也是深沈的自省，展現英格蘭人遭受異國文化入侵而面臨的產業危機、道德腐化與認同問題；最後則是在前兩者的基礎上，追尋英格蘭美好過往，重建民族認同，以及剛強、文雅等民族特質。此三者象徵著英格蘭國體三種不同的穿著方式，也是三種不同的國族特質，它們都顯示了服飾是此時期建構英格蘭國族認同重要的載體。 This article studies the construction of English national identity through the discourse of clothing and its connection with the body in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It begins with a discussion of how nations were defined by clothing in Europe during the periods of the Renaissance and the Exploration, and particularly through printed ＂costume books＂ and maps. Then it moves to England, examining English discourse of dress and the wool cloth industry articulated by the popular writings of this period, such as pamphlets, travel writing, sermons, and maps. Such works not only expressed the solidarity of English national identity, but also displayed various textual and visual representations of Englishness. This article then connects the issue of clothing and the metaphor of the body to categorize their representations into three different images of the national body, which actually are three modes of clothing: the naked national body, the composite, and the civilized. The former two are negative representations of the English nation attributing to its lack of national costume and its inconsistency of dress under the influence of foreign fashions. English writers discerned the decay of the nation in their discussions of the country`s naked body and its composite mode of clothing, but at the same time, they searched for the reasons for this decay and England`s true national character. Those efforts led to a vision of a civilized national body that was founded upon true civility and an ordered society. This vision was also employed to promote traditional morality and the wool cloth industry. No matter which representations of the national body were promoted, they all illustrated that clothing stood out as one of the most powerful mechanisms to convey and fabricate national identity in early modern England. - dc.format.extent 7143429 bytes - dc.format.mimetype application/pdf - dc.relation (關聯) 新史學, 26(2), 51-130 - dc.title (題名) 十六、十七世紀英格蘭的服飾論述與國族認同 - dc.type (資料類型) article en
