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題名 美的追求與自我的改造—BBS網路的美妝與生活實踐論述分析
Quest for beauty and better self-image ---- Multi-textual analysis on the embodied making-up experience
作者 賴思彣
Lai, Su Wen
貢獻者 柯裕棻
賴思彣
Lai, Su Wen
關鍵詞 化妝
BBS
虛擬社群
消費文化
儀式
makeup
BBS
virtual community
consumption
ritual
日期 2007
上傳時間 17-Sep-2009 15:38:55 (UTC+8)
摘要 本研究設定參與批踢踢美妝版討論的年輕彩妝族群為目標研究對象,假設透過彩妝族群群體討論彩妝議題的方式,不僅可以掌握彩妝活動本身的形貌、內容與特性;更可以由討論呈現看出彩妝實踐者在日常生活中執行彩妝活動的方式,以及其對彩妝活動投入的情感乃至於相關的價值傳遞,藉此得以推敲彩妝族群熱衷於化妝的理由,解析美妝論述的內涵。

綜合網路文本分析、深度訪談與田野觀察三法蒐集資料,將網路社群互動特性區隔為媒介與議題兩大面向,受媒介特性影響BBS美妝版之互動有團體意識、網路從眾性、網路規則與團體極化四大特色,回歸議題討論方式則可區隔為消費、妝容打造技巧與意見交流三大類型討論。由此可知,「美的意識」與「化妝的價值」是美妝論述的重要核心,並據此結合學理發展討論進行深度概念分析。

本研究認為化妝第一層次的意義是融入社會的具體策略,行動者認為透過此策略得以幫助自己以較有利的正向姿態進入社會生活,這不僅肇於實踐者將化妝與「正面特質」高度連結,更重要的是生活中化妝儀式的執行過程的勞動成品,除了更「好」的身體外,還有稱為「自信」的精神成分推動著化妝儀式的永續執行。此外,化妝的正向感受亦來自過程中對於器物與技法的掌握控制,化妝活動的執行並非渾然天成的性別天賦,而是學習教養的歷程;技法操演的遊戲樂趣、對彩妝品項的物件愛戀,創造了彩妝實踐同中有異的細微差別,帶來探索多變的快意。擁有並隨心所欲掌握那些許的不同,是推動每日演練化妝並從中得到難以言傳之滿足感的深層動力。

化妝作為當代日益普及的社會現象,作為年輕世代、網路彩妝社群的特殊文化現象,不可單純由消費社會印象管理的角度解讀,亦不可僅由性別批判觀點切入。本研究一方面不忽略消費社會所提供之場景,特別是化妝活動對商品消費的深度涉入,以及消費社會對身體裝飾提供之大量參考文本,提供本研究別具備脈絡的解讀觀點。另一方面亦不忽略化妝作為女性特殊經驗的觀點,重視且回歸受訪者真實經驗為論證基礎,同理彩妝實踐者之情感並認可其能動性,落實真正實踐者發聲的研究特性,並不忘環境結構對個體之影響,提出具脈絡的社會性觀點陳述解釋彩妝文化現象,是為本文最具特色與價值的研究貢獻。
This article takes members of virtual community on PTT’s MakeUp conference as main research target. It is assumed that that the makeup issues discussed within bulletin board conference not only depicts the figure and key factors of makeup activity but also proves makeup as an important roles in daily life. All above are deep influenced and composed by beliefs or ideologies of contemporary social context and these insights show us a way to find answers to the question: why girls are so obsessed with makeup.

Through text analysis of conference within BBS, interviewing in depth and field research, this article categorizes the characteristics of communication within MakeUp into two perspectives: media oriented and topic oriented. The former based on the emphasis of virtual community perspective includes community solidarity, conformity, netiquette and polarization. The later based on the viewpoint of the topic under discussion includes consumption, makeup skill sharing and opinion trade. This shows the consciousness of being beautiful and the value of makeup are the core of cosmetic discourse.

This research reveals that the behavior of makeup signifies two layers of meanings nowadays. The first layer is to take makeup as a beneficial posture for entering social or public life. This fact demonstrates: (1) the high connection between positive values and makeup (2) positive thinking toward applying cosmetics (while these labor products are made) -- Approaching a nicer body and ‘self-confidence’ sustainingly motivates the ritual. Besides, the complete control over cosmetics goods and the face-building process are also the source of pleasure which is not only the second meaning of makeup but also the deeper driving energy of daily makeup ritual.

Taking makeup as a spreading cultural phenomenon, it can not be understood from single viewpoint such as consumerism or feminism. For this reason, this article on the one hand takes the consumer society as a background context to get the idea of using cosmetics to make-up the face in daily life. It on the other hand goes deeply into the experiences and practice of those who really love makeup. Through these aspects, this essay eventually gives a sketch for contemporary makeup culture study on both social structure and personal agency as a major contribution.
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描述 碩士
國立政治大學
廣播電視學研究所
93453008
96
資料來源 http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0093453008
資料類型 thesis
dc.contributor.advisor 柯裕棻zh_TW
dc.contributor.author (Authors) 賴思彣zh_TW
dc.contributor.author (Authors) Lai, Su Wenen_US
dc.creator (作者) 賴思彣zh_TW
dc.creator (作者) Lai, Su Wenen_US
dc.date (日期) 2007en_US
dc.date.accessioned 17-Sep-2009 15:38:55 (UTC+8)-
dc.date.available 17-Sep-2009 15:38:55 (UTC+8)-
dc.date.issued (上傳時間) 17-Sep-2009 15:38:55 (UTC+8)-
dc.identifier (Other Identifiers) G0093453008en_US
dc.identifier.uri (URI) https://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/33157-
dc.description (描述) 碩士zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 國立政治大學zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 廣播電視學研究所zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 93453008zh_TW
dc.description (描述) 96zh_TW
dc.description.abstract (摘要) 本研究設定參與批踢踢美妝版討論的年輕彩妝族群為目標研究對象,假設透過彩妝族群群體討論彩妝議題的方式,不僅可以掌握彩妝活動本身的形貌、內容與特性;更可以由討論呈現看出彩妝實踐者在日常生活中執行彩妝活動的方式,以及其對彩妝活動投入的情感乃至於相關的價值傳遞,藉此得以推敲彩妝族群熱衷於化妝的理由,解析美妝論述的內涵。

綜合網路文本分析、深度訪談與田野觀察三法蒐集資料,將網路社群互動特性區隔為媒介與議題兩大面向,受媒介特性影響BBS美妝版之互動有團體意識、網路從眾性、網路規則與團體極化四大特色,回歸議題討論方式則可區隔為消費、妝容打造技巧與意見交流三大類型討論。由此可知,「美的意識」與「化妝的價值」是美妝論述的重要核心,並據此結合學理發展討論進行深度概念分析。

本研究認為化妝第一層次的意義是融入社會的具體策略,行動者認為透過此策略得以幫助自己以較有利的正向姿態進入社會生活,這不僅肇於實踐者將化妝與「正面特質」高度連結,更重要的是生活中化妝儀式的執行過程的勞動成品,除了更「好」的身體外,還有稱為「自信」的精神成分推動著化妝儀式的永續執行。此外,化妝的正向感受亦來自過程中對於器物與技法的掌握控制,化妝活動的執行並非渾然天成的性別天賦,而是學習教養的歷程;技法操演的遊戲樂趣、對彩妝品項的物件愛戀,創造了彩妝實踐同中有異的細微差別,帶來探索多變的快意。擁有並隨心所欲掌握那些許的不同,是推動每日演練化妝並從中得到難以言傳之滿足感的深層動力。

化妝作為當代日益普及的社會現象,作為年輕世代、網路彩妝社群的特殊文化現象,不可單純由消費社會印象管理的角度解讀,亦不可僅由性別批判觀點切入。本研究一方面不忽略消費社會所提供之場景,特別是化妝活動對商品消費的深度涉入,以及消費社會對身體裝飾提供之大量參考文本,提供本研究別具備脈絡的解讀觀點。另一方面亦不忽略化妝作為女性特殊經驗的觀點,重視且回歸受訪者真實經驗為論證基礎,同理彩妝實踐者之情感並認可其能動性,落實真正實踐者發聲的研究特性,並不忘環境結構對個體之影響,提出具脈絡的社會性觀點陳述解釋彩妝文化現象,是為本文最具特色與價值的研究貢獻。
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dc.description.abstract (摘要) This article takes members of virtual community on PTT’s MakeUp conference as main research target. It is assumed that that the makeup issues discussed within bulletin board conference not only depicts the figure and key factors of makeup activity but also proves makeup as an important roles in daily life. All above are deep influenced and composed by beliefs or ideologies of contemporary social context and these insights show us a way to find answers to the question: why girls are so obsessed with makeup.

Through text analysis of conference within BBS, interviewing in depth and field research, this article categorizes the characteristics of communication within MakeUp into two perspectives: media oriented and topic oriented. The former based on the emphasis of virtual community perspective includes community solidarity, conformity, netiquette and polarization. The later based on the viewpoint of the topic under discussion includes consumption, makeup skill sharing and opinion trade. This shows the consciousness of being beautiful and the value of makeup are the core of cosmetic discourse.

This research reveals that the behavior of makeup signifies two layers of meanings nowadays. The first layer is to take makeup as a beneficial posture for entering social or public life. This fact demonstrates: (1) the high connection between positive values and makeup (2) positive thinking toward applying cosmetics (while these labor products are made) -- Approaching a nicer body and ‘self-confidence’ sustainingly motivates the ritual. Besides, the complete control over cosmetics goods and the face-building process are also the source of pleasure which is not only the second meaning of makeup but also the deeper driving energy of daily makeup ritual.

Taking makeup as a spreading cultural phenomenon, it can not be understood from single viewpoint such as consumerism or feminism. For this reason, this article on the one hand takes the consumer society as a background context to get the idea of using cosmetics to make-up the face in daily life. It on the other hand goes deeply into the experiences and practice of those who really love makeup. Through these aspects, this essay eventually gives a sketch for contemporary makeup culture study on both social structure and personal agency as a major contribution.
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dc.description.tableofcontents 第一章 緒論 1
第一節 彩妝現象蓬勃發展 1
第二節 研究概述 4
第三節 資料蒐集方法 12
一、PTT美妝版討論區文章 13
二、田野觀察 15
(一)百貨公司一樓化妝品區 16
(二)知名品牌付費彩妝課程 16
三、深度訪談 16
第二章 化妝 20
第一節 由字源定義化妝 20
第二節 由操作理解化妝 21
一、底妝 23
二、修容 27
三、唇妝 30
四、眼妝 31
小結 34
第三章 BBS網路主題討論 35
第一節 PTT美妝版 35
第二節 網路社群討論分析 40
一、團體意識 42
二、網路從眾性 45
三、網路規則 49
四、團體極化 52
第三節 美妝議題討論歸納 55
一、消費 56
(一)商品 56
(二)消費者意識 61
二、妝容打造技巧 65
三、意見交流 69
第四章 美妝生活 74
第一節 「美」的流轉 74
一、五0至九0年代彩妝風格 76
二、二000年後,BBS美妝社群的彩妝偏好 78
第二節 化妝的價值變遷 87
一、化妝是經營外表的策略 89
(一)幫助外型更加分 89
(二)吸引他人的目光 90
二、化妝是進入成年的儀式 92
三、化妝是生活美學的操演 93
第三節 打造身體的精神作用 96
一、Before versus After 97
二、身體與社會的對話 100
第五章 結論 104
一、網路美妝社群互動特性 106
二、網路美妝議題討論面向 107
三、解析美妝實踐隱含之價值意識 110
四、美妝論述內涵架構與研究反思 113
參考文獻 119
附件一、化妝史簡表 1-8
附件二、田野逐字稿摘錄 9-63
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dc.language.iso en_US-
dc.source.uri (資料來源) http://thesis.lib.nccu.edu.tw/record/#G0093453008en_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 化妝zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) BBSzh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 虛擬社群zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 消費文化zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) 儀式zh_TW
dc.subject (關鍵詞) makeupen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) BBSen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) virtual communityen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) consumptionen_US
dc.subject (關鍵詞) ritualen_US
dc.title (題名) 美的追求與自我的改造—BBS網路的美妝與生活實踐論述分析zh_TW
dc.title (題名) Quest for beauty and better self-image ---- Multi-textual analysis on the embodied making-up experienceen_US
dc.type (資料類型) thesisen
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